Showing posts with label coffee. Show all posts
Showing posts with label coffee. Show all posts

Perfume Review: Cafe Noir (Dawn Spencer Hurwitz - DSH - Parfums des Beaux Arts)


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I've never been to Paris. It goes to follow that I've never been in a Parisian cafe, had a coffee in France, or people-watched along a cobblestone French street. Perfumer Dawn Spencer Hurwitz, fondly known as DSH by her millions of fans, created a perfume that almost makes me feel like I've have, though.

The first time I sampled Cafe Noir, part of DSH's line Parfums des Beaux Arts, I mostly picked up the coffee note. It's the note most often used to describe this perfume. I think that's selling this scent short!

Sure, there's a beautiful coffee note present, but that's not all! Let's talk about the coffee, though, for a minute. Where New Haarlem (Bond No.9)  was a bracing double-shot in a styrofoam cup, Cafe Noir is richer, softer coffee in a cup and saucer. The barista sprinkled some cinnamon in it, a spicy-sweet twist.



"A Paris night... Dark and sophisticated,
it evokes late concerts in smoke-filled rooms...
sipping coffee and listening to jazz.
"
-DSH

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Once the nose acclimates to the steaming coffee and delicate spice, it's free to venture further. With the cinnamon coffee always present, a sexy floral blend wafts in. Jasmine and rose dance softly but distinctly, reminding me a bit of twin snakes of smoke and steam spiraling upwards from lit cigarettes and hot mugs.

Labdanum, a note I'm learning more about (and love), is probably what's responsible for the somewhat creamy, ambery facet to this perfume. It's the slightest bit like warm skin kissed by smoke.

Cafe Noir is not a perfume that follows the typical pyramid evolution (top-> heart-> base). On me, it's like those smoke tendrils, snaking and myserious, allowing brief glimpses of this and that. It's not a difficult scent, but it refuses to sit still and be defined simply.[1]
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I suppose this perfume falls under the gourmand umbrella, but to me Cafe Noir isn't a foody scent. As I said, I think limiting your view of this scent by focusing on the spiced coffee aspect is selling it short. To me, it's just as much about the florals and the amber.

In my opinion, Cafe Noir is unisex and nearly universally appropriate to wear, though it certainly would smolder at night! It draws you in for a whispered conversation and while some people consider it dark, I see it more as candlelit. But Cafe Noir is not just for night, in my opinion; it's my new favorite comfort scent.

Cafe Noir is cozy. It's romantic. It's sexy. It's most certainly beautiful... kind of like Paris (or so I understand).



House: Parfums des Beaux Arts (Dawn Spencer Hurwitz- DSH)
Perfume: Cafe Noir
Perfumer: Dawn Spencer Hurwitz
Notes:  bergamot, black pepper, cinnamon bark, pimento berry, benzoin, Bulgarian rose otto, jasmine, labdanum, coffee absolute, tolu balsam, vanilla
Released: 1997

Sample: purchased from DSH

Final Word: Full bottle-worthy comfort scent.



Do you have a comfort scent?


[1] Although there's a tiny smoky hint to this perfume and I'm using smoke as imagery, I don't detect any toboacco or incense or cigarette-type note here.

Perfume Review: New Haarlem (Bond No. 9)

I can't "do" mornings without my coffee. It's crucial. The aroma as it brews, the warmth and weight of my favorite mug, the ritual of making and drinking it... All of these things reassure me and make me feel like my day has officially begun on a good note.
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I had no idea until recently that there was such a thing as a coffee note in perfumery. Sure, I've smelled coffee candles and such, but they didn't move me. I'd rather fire up a pot and experience the real deal.

To say I was skeptical about coffee in perfume is an understatement. What I didn't want: an artificial smell, plastic tones, randomness, and pandering. In other words, if you're going to put coffee in a perfume, it had better smell good and be artistic- it must make sense.

Enter Bond No. 9 and their popular New Haarlem.


Northbound with the A-train to cabaret-jazz club-central... a scent so brazen it was barely captured in a bottle. Molten, liquified swank with androgynous appeal, to wear after midnight in -and on- hot-spots.

I wasn't too sure what to expect from New Haarlem, but what I did know is that many folks raved! Detractors mostly seemed put off by the concept of smelling like food or drink, or by the price. [1]

I obtained a sample, spritzed, and waited...

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...of course, I didn't have to wait long! This scent starts with an eye-opening blast of black coffee with a double-shot of espresso. It's sharp and it's bracing. And it's good!

Just as a piping hot cuppa cools, so does the opening intensity of New Haarlem. Bond No. 9 isn't done, though. Not by a long shot.

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Next up is a shot of something green and a dose of a lovely lavender. The combination takes the coffee note to an almost licorice-like place that some people seem to read as "burnt" or "caramelized". The green and lavender aspects cut the sharpness and  freshen the scent.

The green notes fade after about ten minutes and a slightly vanilla tone replaces it. [2]

Smells like a coffee break with this guy.
It's at this point where I'm no longer sipping my first mugful of coffee in the morning. Now I'm sitting next to an older jazz musician on his break, chatting over takeout coffee in styrofoam containers. I can smell his cologne, a nice fougere with lavender, vanilla and a bit of patchouli. New Haarlem, by the way, is marketed as "unisex" and I would agree: it's neither feminine nor masculine... just good.

Just like the best jazz clubs, New Haarlem's music never stops. This perfume goes and goes and goes and goes, always with a distinct coffee note. I can get at least 24 hours out of one little spray, with significant throw and sillage. Great for me, because I adore this perfume, but if you don't like it it's bad news! [3]

In fact, if I had to complain about New Haarlem it would be about the longevity. I love this perfume, but it's so intense and persistent that it's there for the day - and I like to switch scents midday. Still, as complaints go, that's fairly minor.
 

 

Fragrance: New Haarlem
House: Bond No. 9
Perfumer: Maurice Roucel
Notes:  patchouli, lavender, vanilla, coffee, cedar and bergamot
Released: 2003

Sample: provided by Bond No. 9 PR

Final Word: It's like enjoying the perfect cup of coffee all day long!



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Other Bond No. 9 New Haarlem reviews:

Bois de Jasmin: New Haarlem by Bond no. 9: Fragrance Review ::
Now Smell This: Bond no. 9 New Haarlem ~ fragrance review
One Thousand Scents: Big Money: Bond No. 9 Wall Street and New HaarlemEiderdownpress: Bond No. 9 New Haarlem
Basenotes reviews
Fragrantica: reviews

Makeupalley reviews 

 






[1] Bond No. 9 scents run for about $215 for 100ml; $150 for 50ml; and $45 for a 7ml "bon-bon".
[2] There are moments in New Haarlem's development where -and Perfumista's please don't shoot me for this!- I'm reminded of Jicky (Guerlain). It's the vanilla + lavender + patchouli blend.
[3] By the way, it's so tenacious it takes a good deal of scrubbing to remove. Try washing the skin with Tide (yes, really).