Falling Down the Rabbit Hole: How I Became a Perfumista.

I don't know who said it first, but someone somewhere referred to the beginning of their love affair with perfume as falling down the rabbit hole. ^[1]   Poor Alice chases a rabbit and tumbles into a bizarre world that seems familiar but is worlds apart. Becoming a Perfumista is kinda like that.

Imagine if you used your ears all of your life to communicate and to pick up signs of danger but had never noticed nuance or tone or timbre. You had ears; they worked fine. But you never gave them a second thought.

And then one day you somehow come across a CD. It doesn't matter whose CD, or how it happened to land in your hands, but for the first time the stars aligned just so or something and BAM! You fall into a world of sound.

It's an awakening. This new world was already there around you - that's the crazy thing. You not only start finding more CDs, but you start reading about music, seeking out concerts, talking to people about it. There's so much to hear! Has it always been around? It's everywhere! People catch your attention on the train (his deep voice!), at the market (her soft whisper!), on the phone (raspy smoker!). You notice the various bird songs over your head, the jets roaring through the clouds, the crunch of leaves as you walk. Sound is everywhere and it had been all along. You can't get enough. Becoming a Perfumista is kinda like that.

How did I get here in this land of perfume? The rabbit I chased wasn't white, it was amber.  But let me back up for a moment...

I read a lot of blogs. First, I read blogs because they are interesting. But also reading other writers helps you know what's going on, inspires you, and keeps you on your toes. A favorite blog of mine is The Non-Blonde. Gaia writes about makeup, perfume and sometimes about celebrities. I love her snarky way with words! I also love how passionately she writes about perfumes. I don't always agree with her, but it's clear she has a bad case of Perfume Fandom.

I had reviewed some perfumes over the past few years on my beauty blog.  My amateur nose basically knew only if it liked something or it didn't (not that there's anything wrong with that!). Inspired by these odd-sounding perfumes I'd see on The Non-Blonde (she talked about "niche" and "vintage" and other things I didn't quite understand), I started following links to other blogs about perfume.

Fascinating! Had this all been out there all along?! I read and read, then read some more. Eventually it was time to try some of these "strange" perfumes (meaning: scents not available at my Macy's or Nordstrom). I ordered some samples based on favorable reviews, skipping notes I was pretty sure I wouldn't like. And I waited...

One of the first samples I tried was by Annick Goutal. The line isn't sold anywhere nearby, but I happened to have a bottle of La Violette hanging around that had been given to me by a PR person for review on my other blog, so I knew it was good stuff. Anyway, I had ordered a sample of the much-raved-about Ambre Fetiche. I had no idea what to expect except that a lot of bloggers loved it and that "amber" was listed as a note in many of the scents I had enjoyed smelling and wearing over the years.

I'll do a proper review of Ambre Fetiche soon, but what's important for this story is that I loved this scent. I wore the sample every day. I milked almost every molecule out of that tiny little vial. I was obsessed with the way Ambre Fetiche smelled! I sniffed my arm... I slept with it swirling around me. At times, I wanted it to wear off, just so I could reapply it!

Eventually, the vial was so depleted that I was afraid to dab any more. I was twitchy. I felt like I was in withdrawl or something.^[2]  I couldn't stop thinking about this perfume! After a week or so, I caved and bought a small bottle. I was so relieved when it arrived, I can't even tell you. Pathetic, I am!

But that sample and subsequent purchase... That blissful feeling I got (still get) when smelling that perfume... That need to never not have that scent available to me... That was the beginning of the Fandom for me.

Since then, I've sniffed a lot of great perfumes (and some not so great ones). Only a few take me to That Place, though.^[3]  But that's not the whole point, now is it?

Jackson Pollock, Greyed Rainbow, oil and enamel on canvas, 1953.
Don't get it? You don't have to. I did.

I once stood in front of a Jackson Pollock and was moved to tears. Goosebumps spread up my arms. It was my leap into the rabbit hole of Abstract Expressionism, an art movement that gets a lot of flack from non-art types but that resonates deeply with me. I appreciate most of it, dislike some, love some others, and am absolutely blown away by a few. Becoming a Perfumista is kinda like that...

Have you officially fallen down the rabbit hole?
What was your White Rabbit?

[1] Re: "Falling Down the Rabbit Hole" - this phrase, used in another non-Wonderland related way a few years ago, was misheard as "falling on a rabid whore." The conversation was fairly confusing for a few minutes, there!
[2] I mean no offense to anyone in recovery or battling addictions. I have the utmost respect for anyone going through that struggle, but this is the only metaphor I can come up with to really show what I experienced. I'm not trying to make light of addiction.
[3] In case you're curious: Bois des Iles (Chanel), Amaranthine (Penhaligon's), Eau Claire des Merveilles (Hermes), Une Rose Chypree (Tauer).

Falling paintings: Gail Siptak

About perfume reviews: talking about fragrance

I love reading perfume reviews. Some of them take me on an amazing trip, while others explain things about the scent (or perfumer or house or time period or... you get the idea!). Others contain fascinating stories that give a snapshot into the lives and minds of the writer. And many (MANY!) of them leave me wanting to sniff that juice.

So, as an admitted perfume newbie, how on earth am I supposed to review perfumes?! What do I know and how can I "compete" with these professional perfumers and reviewers and/or established bloggers?* I'm going to tell you how things are going to be done around here** so you know the method behind my madness. I'll also tell you what I've learned about perfume reviews by other people.

Ready? Let's go!
xoxo,
*jen


*I'll let you in on a little secret: I am not trying to compete! I know there is plenty of room in the world for some more opinions. Dontcha think?
**Doesn't the phrase "how things are going to be done around here" sound so imperious and firm? I feel like I'm about to ground someone. "No sniffs for you, young lady!" ;)

Perfume Reviews. The whole thing sounds simple, right?

Go to a website that reviews cameras or other products and you'll see a description of the product (compact, lightweight), an explanation of its features (zoom lens and macro), a description of how it works (the flash is unpredictable, buttons are sticky), and probably an opinion or "rating" (Excellent for everyday use, but upgrade if you're a professional. B+). Services are also critiqued (We had to wait for 20 minutes and then the person who helped us was surly).

Easy! Anyone can do it!

So how hard can a perfume review be? You just write what it smells like and maybe even venture a verdict. Possibly give it a grade (A+, F) or rate it Zagat-style with stars (1 is awful, 5 is amazing). What's the big deal? Just jump in and do it.

In the imaginary soundtrack to my life (What? You don't have one?) we'd cue the record scratch that signifies a surprising stop. Now rewind...

"Write what it smells like" and "venture a verdict". Um... Not as easy as they sound!

describing a scent
Say I tell you to imagine the scent of a rose. (Do it now!) Now describe it. I'll wait right here.

Salvador Dali: The Meditative Rose

Not easy, right? Maybe your thought process go a little like this: "Um... Red? Er... Well, it... Uh... Rose-esque!" When you're talking to a rose afficianado, though, you'll hear: spicy, sweet, citrusy, warm, cool, musky, musty, fresh, deep, dark, honeyed...

There are a couple of major problems that I have discovered about this whole "describe a scent" thing.

A) there are not a lot of words for how things smell.
B) those words can have different meanings for different people!

via

A lot of us link the sense of smell to the sense of taste.When we talk about how something tastes, we do have some language to use: salty, bitter, sour, and so forth. Wine (and beer) afficionados go further: "It's full-bodied and round, with a peppery undercurrent. It's a bit oaky. Do I detect a shimmering spring berry nuance?"

Fragrance descriptions remind me of wine tasting to an extent. In fact, I was advised by a friend that learning about wines would help me train my nose. The thing is: I really don't give a damn about wines, so I'll pass. For both hobbies though, one must be pretentious be able to separate subtle nuances and put together descriptive words that describe something.

Norman Rockwell, Art Critic via

I'd go so far as to compare art criticism (something with which I am slightly familiar) with perfume criticism. Both take a subject born of passion and created from disparate ingredients, and try to break that subject down, describe it, and measure it's worth. We try to figure out and judge the artist's/perfumer's goals, motives, theme and thoughts... to interpret them through our own perspective and experiences.

Some terms from art have been borrowed by perfumistos, too: contrast, depth, dark and light, brightness. Fragrances are also often given a color association (green, amber, brown, and so forth).

Let's go back to the rose for a minute. When we talk about roses, we aren't all on the same page. The same holds true for describing all scents. I can say that a perfume smells like the rose on my grandmother's porch, but unless you were there you just can't identify with that reference. Each species of rose smells different, and I would imagine that environment, soil, air, plant health and food can all impact the scent.

It gets even harder to relate to a fragrance review when it speaks of odors you've never even encountered! Certain flowers have never crossed my path, and others have - but with no scent  (hybridization has robbed many flowers of their perfume). Some spices live on the other side of the world, not in my spice rack. Don't get me started on those fantasy accords listed in some perfume descriptions. "The breath of a fallen angel and the bloom of kittens' feet"? "A whisper from the sea, laced with a hint of chocolate & nirvana"? C'mon now.

the bloom of kittens' feet?
via

So giving words to scent isn't easy, to put it simply. Now... How does one rate a perfume?

giving a verdict

I'm just going to put it right out there: critiquing is subjective. It is opinion. Even when the critic states tons of facts and "backs-up" the verdict well, it's still opinion, colored by personal associations, experiences and beliefs. The most technically perfect painting in the world can leave me unmoved. An award-winning chef can present me his specialty, but if it has textures or tastes I loathe I'm just not gonna dig it. Classical music, even the best pieces, doesn't float my boat at all but I love some of that musical theater you can't stand!

Critiques are done by three different types of people, as far as I can tell:

1. Professionals
2. Non-professionals
3. People who are paid to have an opinion

As far as this blog goes, I fall firmly in Category Two. I am no pro, I think we've established that! And no one pays me* (or ever will) to share my opinion or thoughts here.

*Should a movie deal come out of this, though, I will gladly grab the fistsful of money and head straight to Bergdorf Goodman. Also, I would like Angelina Jolie to play me (duh).

While there may only be 3 types of reviewers, there are many more types of reviews. And many are a combination of these types:

via

• Descriptive
  These reviews step you through the development of the perfume. Example: "It opened with a splash of citrus. Mostly bergamot. I got a bit of incense before rich, spicy roses bloomed. That stage lasted about twenty minutes. Etc..." We already discussed the trouble with words, but regardless, this is the type of review I find most helpful, and I will try to add this style into my own impressions.
  
• Comparative
  For these reviews, a note, facet or phase of development may be held up against another perfume (sometimes positively, sometimes not). "It opens with aldehydes like those of Chanel No. 5" is a phrase I see often.  Other comparisons may be along the lines of "the drydown is soft like Perfume X, but drier" or "the patchouli is rich and mellow, like the patchouli in Perfume Y". I am sure that the seasoned perfumista finds these helpful, but the beginner may chafe a bit due to a lack of experience with the referenced scents. Note: it gets better! Try familiarizing yourself with these perfumes if you want to "get" the references.
  
• Informative
  I think people who are born teachers or researchers are most likely to write this style of review. Smattered with odd, semi-related tidbits, detailed explanations, and historical references, these reviews educate. I really enjoy this style a lot. To the best of my ability, I'll do some of this. I'm one of those born teacher types. 



via

• Technical
  These gets more in depth than an informative review. Octavian uses this style a lot, and does it quite well. These reviews may mention specific techniques used to create a perfume, the exact ingredients used (with chemical names!), and all sorts of other details that make my eyes cross! I enjoy these reviews, actually... when I understand them. 
• Poetic
  Literally referencing poetry at times, these are the stuff of artistic souls. These reviews may refer to a passage in a book, a scene in a movie, a work of art, a quote or a song. Whatever media is chosen, it's clear that the scent has triggered a deep connection that bridges to some other reference. I love these reviews, but expect them only rarely here. My brain doesn't work that way!
  
• Scene-Setting
  I couldn't decide what to call this, but here it is anyway. I quite like this style, actually, which is maybe why marketing people love me! These reviews build a mini-scene that puts the scent in an easily digestible setting. For example: "Imagine a woman in the 1940's, bending down to fasten the strap of a new leather shoe. She's sitting at her dressing table, where her expensive face powder sits beneath a vase of wildflowers." See how that puts together an image you can work with? Maybe I will refer to those as "Nose Pictures".

Jackson Pollock via

A few thoughts:

I think the only people who can and should give a rating to a scent are those who understand how to make a perfume, how to break it apart, and how to evaluate it technically. Then again, as far as I know there are few agreed-upon qualities on which to base a rating. I'll get into that more in another article, but "technically" perfumes are evaluated for contrast, creativity and a few other things.

Just as a Monet may epitomize the Impressionistic style of painting and a Pollock the Abstract Impressionistic style, a perfume may be "technically perfect". This means very little to me. A perfect example may move me to tears (Pollock!)  but is just as likely to not be my style (I'm lookin' at you, Monet!). It's filed, for me, under Nice to Know, but holds no real weight.

In my opinion, reviews are 100% opinion. All should be taken with a grain of salt (mine too!). Another person's review is not going to completely match my experience; some will come close, but others will be miles away.


I take no issue with people who rate scents when clearly stating that it's opinion. We all have favorites! But I don't trust the lay person's definition of "perfectly executed" any more than I trust my mechanic to do my taxes. (That is to say: somewhat. It may or not work out, but I'm not going to blindly trust!)

What are your thoughts about reviewing scent?

Red Rose Red Rose

Which is a sweet scent to the nose

So soft and smooth

It makes my heart move

Red Rose Red Rose

Which makes a good pose

That I like to hold

Red Rose Red Rose

Which the wind blows

As each day goes

Red Rose Red Rose

Which grows and grows

It's my favorite kind

That it sooths the mind

Red Rose Red Rose

That it helps sooth my soul

Eve Anderson

Wearing fragrance: A how-to of sorts

I was spinning my wheels over the holidays. I have been playing with samples, reading reviews... I even picked up the new book about Chanel No. 5 and was given two books by NY Times Scent Critic Chandler Burr. I'm immersed in perfume, almost literally!

I said I'd start reviewing scents, but I suppose I lied. Sorry! I think there are a few more things to talk about first. For example, how does one test a fragrance? And what is the best way to wear scent? Are you expected to make decisions off of a scented strip of paper in a magazine, from a blotter in a store or from a whiff of the bottle at a counter? Is there such thing as sampling protocol? How about protocol for wearing fragrances? The mind boggles...

I think I'll start with wearing scent, then cover sampling. Sound good? As always, this is a learning process for me, so discussion is welcome and encouraged!

how to apply fragrance

Sounds kind of silly, doesn't it? One simply puts it on, right? Well, sure, but there are always different ways to do things and some work better than others!

Pulse points
Probably most of us have been told to wear our fragrances on our pulse points. Why is that? And what the hell are pulse points, anyway?! The answer to the second question can be answered by watching tv dramas. Think of that body awkwardly lying in the corner of the room on your favorite crime show. When our hero rushes in, what does she do? After clearing the room and looking meaningfully at the camera, she rushes to the body and checks the victim's wrist or throat for that flicker -or lack thereof - that let's her know if the victim is dead.

Pulse points.

Those I just mentioned are the most commonly scented, the throat and wrist, but there are others. Essentially, pulse points are areas where the skin in thin enough to be able to feel the rhythm of the blood as it whishes through the arteries. These areas tend to be a bit warm. That warmth is why we dab perfume there- the heat helps the oils in the scent "open up and bloom" (that's perfumista talk for "get smelly").

There are pulse points in the groin (where the legs attach to the torso) (this does not mean your genitalia, which is a bad place for perfumes due to the fact that you could get all itchy and gross). There are also pulse points on the backs of the knees and in the inner elbow, and in the armpit (but please don't check my pulse there 'cause ew!). Oh, apparently there are also pulse points on the insides of the ankles, too.


Many people also dab or spritz perfume elsewhere. Popular spots:

• Behind the ears
  Some is bound to get on the hair, which brings us to...
  
• In the hair
  Hair seems to hold scent really well, and adds a little boost to sillage (the scent trail that follows in your wake). It's also fun to toss long hair and get a woosh of scent! Since alcohol is the base of many perfumes, this may be a technique to avoid, as it could be too harsh (for example my color-treated hair needs coddling, not added stressors). The oils in hair could also change the way a scent smells, so beware. And last but not least, what if you're dealing with a scrubber?! If you need to get that stank off, a shampoo is a hassle that may not be convenient.
  Note: brands do make "hair perfumes". Cool.
  Another Note: I have been known to wear scent in my hair, 'cause I don't spritz on enough to damage anything.
  
• On the clothes
  Please test in an inconspi inconspicul hidden place to make sure a) the scent doesn't fall flat or behave in an unbecoming manner or b) stain.
  
• Breasts/chest
  I quite like this idea. One, the scent wafts up nicely towards the nose. Two, the clothes trap some of the scent in (like a Dutch Oven), which makes me think it will stick around longer (completely non-scientific theory). And C, it's warm there, usually, unless you dress like a 'ho (or pimp, for the gentlemen).
  
• Backs of arms
  I'm not sure why, but I like this and it's my new preferred application location. Theories on why scent is so nice here are welcome!

method of application

How do you do it? Sometimes that's dictated by the packaging (spray or "splash").

• Spray. One spritz or more, directly on the skin.
• Spray. In the air, then walk through it.
• Dab. Directly where you want it.
• Layer. Use body oil, lotion, powder and perfume from the same line to really boost the scent's power (theoretically).

Discussion of above: I prefer to spray or dab directly. Spraying into the air is supposed to prevent the fragrance from being "too strong" or to encourage "even coverage". Well, I want to be able to smell the stuff I spent boucoup bucks on and carefully chose as my scent for the occassion. Besides, call me a Control Freak, but I want to know where the scent is going (like, not on the floor or my back or my hair or the cat lounging nearby). I don't layer, either, because I wear different scents during the day sometimes. I like to switch to a cozy scent after dinner and let it help me unwind. Anyway, I don't always like the way scents present in body butter or bath oil form, since they may smell different from the edt/edp/etc.

A note about "dabbing": some people believe that a scent is only experienced properly if sprayed. I don't know if that's true or not; I'm kind of experimenting. More on that at a later date, perhaps. There may be some truth to the theory that dabbing is less ideal, though, if one considers that the bottle top or rim could transfer dead skin and oils back into the jus (jus =perfume liquid, but the French word sounds prettier!). I don't worry about that too much, but many people do. I think if I sold my soul for a vintage scent, I might reconsider my nonchalance.

Which ways do you apply your scents?

reapplication: do or don't?

I read somewhere (and lost my notes- if you have the source, please let me know!) that by reapplying a scent an hour or so after the initial application, you're messing with the progression of the scent. That made so much sense to me!

A fragrance is usually meant to evolve from top notes to heart notes and then to base notes. The lighter or crisper or brighter initial moments give way to the stronger, bolder (maybe), broader middle. In turn, the heart gracefully backs away, giving the base notes a chance to deepen, settle, and broaden even further. If I reapply a scent too soon, I'm interrupting this cascade and disturb its flow. The result could be less waltz, more Elaine from Seinfeld.

My theory: if I find myself wanting to keep reapplying frequently, I must consider whether or not the scent is for me. Do I really only enjoy the opening or some particular notes or facets? Do I really want a stronger version (maybe the edp instead of the edt)? Maybe this is a good time to consider layering, seeking a bit more oomph.

As a personal note, sometimes I do reapply the same scent later in the day, but I wait until the first application is well into dry-down and is nearly faded. This seems to work well for me. What are your thoughts on reapplication?

rubbing your wrists (ankles? whatever!) together

Do you or don't you? Full confession: I do, lightly. Some people are against it. "It crushes the molecules!" I have no idea if I'm capable of crushing a molecule or not (somehow, I doubt it).

There may be some truth in the advice to avoid rubbing or spreading, though, if doing so does something to breakdown or displace the balance of oils in a perfume. I don't rub at it like a genie's lamp, I lightly brush my forearms together to distribute the product a bit, partially because I don't want perfume trickling down my wrist onto my fingers but also because I like it further up my arm so it doesn't get washed off or doused in hand sanitizer.

A thread I started on Basenotes brought up the possibility that spreading the puddle (for lack of a fancy word) will hurry the development and/or weaken certain stages. I'm going to try to break this habit and see if it changes anything.

Your thoughts on this are encouraged!

And that's basically how to wear fragrance.
Except for any bits I've forgotten to mention. ;)  Please, please, please feel free (nay, encouraged) to contribute!


xoxo,
*jen


Next up: how to test fragrance!

The next step... What is Perfume, anyway?

I have to confess: I've been stuck here for a few days. This next step is maybe the hardest: Where to go from here?

I could start talking about the classics. I could share with you my favorite fragrances and find out about yours. We could learn some more vocabulary/jargon. I think, though, the right next step is to make sure we're on the same page with some perfume basics. There are tons of resources "out there", some of which I'll quote or refer to, since they are written by folks much more qualified to explain them than I. But I do feel like I need to provide some sort of starting place; a common ground.

After this, I'll build some resource lists and pages for this site before taking the next, next step. If you have resources and links to share, please do!

xoxo,
*jen

Silly question, right? But maybe not so silly, because how can we really talk about something, become knowledgeable about it, without learning the details? Or at least that's the way I look at it.

perfume is...
Fragrance is made up of perfume oils and... stuff. Usually, that stuff is either ethanol (alcohol) or a solution of water and ethanol. One can also dilute pure perfume oils in other oils that don't add to the scent. You're familiar with the concept of mixing, right? Well, just as when mixing a color of paint, a cocktail, or ingredients for a recipe, the amounts of this and that used directly impact the end result. That's where some of the names used to describe concentrations of fragrance come in.

Here are the most commonly used names for fragrance concentrations, from lightest (least amount of perfume oils) to strongest:

• Splash / Aftershave / Eau Fraiche : between 1-3% perfume oils
• Eau de Cologne (EdC): 3-8% (usually about 5%)
• Eau de Toilette (EdT): 5-15% (usually about 10%)
• Eau de Parfum (EdP) / Parfum de Toilette / Eau de Perfume / Millésime: 10-20% (usually about 15%)
• Espirit de Parfum: 15-30% [this is rarely seen]
• Perfume Oil: 15-30% in a base of oil rather than in alcohol
• Perfume Extract / Extrait / Perfume: 15-40% (usually about 20%)

So what's the deal? Why so many ways to brew fragrance? That answer is easy: each concentration results in a different intensity of scent. Also, usually one can expect the stronger concentrations to last longer on the skin.

Of course, you've likely noticed that there's overlap with the descriptions and concentrations. One EdT is not the same as the next, just like your spaghetti sauce isn't the same as mine. EdT A may have 8% perfume oils while EdT B may have 12%.  Oh, and to make matters worse, some companies put different ingredients in the various concentrations of the same scent! So just because you want "more oomph" from a fragrance you adore in EdP form doesn't mean you'll love the extrait.

By the way, since "perfume" is really the name of a type of fragrance product; a term to signify a concentration of scent, to keep things simple I'll usually refer to fragrance products as "fragrance". When I say "perfume" going forward, it will mean The Good Stuff: extrait.

so where do the perfume oils come from?

This is super complex, and while I may go more in-depth with it at a later date, I want to touch on it now, a tiny little bit. Luckily, I'm no chemist, so this shouldn't get too hairy.

Two sources of scent...

Basically, there are two types of "odorants" that go into fragrances: natural and synthetic. Neither is better or worse, and most fragrances have some of each inside.

Synthetic scents are manufactured in a lab, as you may have guessed. Why? Well, some ingredients are so expensive or hard-to-find as natural ingredients, so a more affordable synthetic version is created. In other cases, there is no real way to capture and bottle a scent, like the crackling ozone of a lightening storm or the scent of beach air. Still other synthetics replace naturals that are not terribly earth- or animal-friendly, for example ambergris, which is a natural by product of sperm whale digestion (humanely harvested...usually, but hard-to-find), or various musks (which must be extracted from animals).

Synthetics get a bit of a bad rap. While many synthetic replacements are widely considered by fragrance fanatics to lessen a vintage scent after reformulation  (a whole can of worms I'll open at another time), they do have their place elsewhere, in my opinion.

image via essentialoilsaromatherapyinfo.com

Natural ingredients come from the source material...somehow. Heat, solvents, and other processes are used to extract oils ("essential oils"), absolutes, concretes or butters from the source. Solvents can be used in a process called "maceration" to create concretes. The source, usually a wood or dry plant fiber, is submerged in a solvent for a length of time (which varies). The solvent then leaches the scent out of the source and can be used or further processed. Other raw materials, like soft flowers, are heated (directly, with steam, or with machinery) until condensation is created, then collected. Still other raw materials get a big squeeze!!! By compressing or squeezing materials like citrus peels, their oils can be obtained. Then there's enfleurage. A fancy name for letting fat or wax suck up the scent of the raw materials, though this method isn't used so much nowadays. (um...good?)

Natural ingredients can be pretty expensive, which is passed along to the consumer in the final fragrance price. Don't be fooled, though! Some synthetics are mighty pricey, too.

image via commons.wikimedia.org/

so how does it all pull together?

A perfumer usually starts with a concept, and that concept may come from the perfumer or a corporation. He or she will use anywhere from one (rarely) to a bajillion (also rare) ingredients to create a fragrance. The main scent is built, then modified (brightened, made deeper, etc). Other ingredients may be added to make it smoother or "more flowy" (a technical term... not). Fixitives are added to stabilize the scent and give it a base. Then the alcohol and/or alcohol solution gets mixed in.

The array of ingredients in a perfumer's aresnal is usually set up in a semi-circle and referred to as a "perfumer's organ".

building a fragrance

Many consumers have heard of "perfume notes". This is a way of talking about how a scent presents itself. They are often displayed in the form of a pyramid. The notes are top notes, middle or heart notes, and base notes. Essentially, they exist because different molecules evaporate at different rates - and evaporation is how the molecules make it to our noses to be smelled.

• Top Notes evaporate first, so they are the first scents you smell. They are a fragrance's first impression. Top notes are most often fruity or citrus scents or light florals.
  
• Middle Notes show up five to ten minutes after application, just after the top notes start to fade. They also overlap the base notes, smoothing out or hiding any rough start those notes might have. Heart notes are often, but not always, florals.
  
• Base notes evaporate last. They appear anywhere from 20 minutes to an hour into the development of a scent. These are the scents that linger. They are often described as "deep" or "rich" and tend to sit closer to the wearer's skin (can't be smelled from as far away as the middle and top notes). Base notes are often woody, resinous, or earthy.

A note on notes: when you see a list of notes for a fragrance, don't focus on them too closely. Listed notes are best thought of as a guide, not a final answer. Some notes might not be listed, might be a generic term (like "lilac" may be an accord of ingredients that mimic the scent of lilac or two lilac ingredients, one natural one synthetic). There's a great article here I encourage you to read that explains more about this.

The middle and base notes are really what makes the bulk of the scent, since the top notes are fleeting.

classifying fragrances

There are more ways to talk about fragrances. Many people refer to fragrance "families". These are broad classifications for scents. To complicate things, there are two or three ways to look at these fragrance types.

Here are most of the commonly used terms:

• Florals: flower scents
• Soliflores are scents in which the fragrance is predominantly one flower. 
• Other florals are based on multiple flowers ("floral bouquet").
  Florals are sometimes additionally classified as "florals", "soft florals" and "floral Orientals" (AKA "floriental").
  
• Orientals: tend to have ambergris or other animal scents, and woods, sometimes with vanilla and spices. The modern Fragrance Wheel method of classifying scents breaks down Orientals into "soft Orientals", "Orientals," and "woody Orientals".
  
• Woods: shockingly, these have woody notes.
  Woods can be further broken down into "wood", "mosssy woods", and "dry woods".
  
• Chypre: follow a bit of a pattern, typically with citrus top notes, floral middle notes, and oakmoss and/or musk base.
  
• Fougere: these are herbaceous and woody scents (fougere means "fern").
  
• Green: cut grass, cucumber, leafy scents
  
• Aquatics, Ozone: a synthetic air + marine scent
  
• Gourmand: foody, edible-smelling
  
• Animalics: leather perfumes; musks; scents containing civet, castoreum, maybe ambergris depending on whom you ask
• Citrus: self-explanatory

 Whew. That's a whole lot of info, isn't it? I'm exhausted. Time to go spritz myself with something good-smelling. :)

and the next, next step?

What is that next step (after this one), you may be wondering? Our first review! Suggestions for scents to go up on the block are encouraged. I've got a small aresenal at hand, but it's a good one. :)

Surprising Scents I Don't Mind

How odd is it that these scents don't bother me?

• Skunk
• Blood
• A freshly fertilized field
• Horse barns
• A nail salon
• Ammonia *it's more that my nose seems to tune it out easily or doesn't recognize it well, somehow.

Are there any scents you're surprised to admit you don't mind (or even like)?

Scents I love

Not perfumes I love. Scents. Not even in regards to perfume (which would be referred to as "notes"), but just things I enjoy smelling.

In no particular order:

• A fire burning in chilly Fall air
• Church incense
• Vanilla (not too sweet, though!)
• Pumpkin pie
• A baby's breath (not the flower, but the milky sweet breath of an infant)
• Lilacs (though I am violently allergic)
• Freshly mowed grass
• Baby powder
• Roses
• The smell from a laundromat (specifically a bank of washers and dryers, not the ones at home)
• Pasta sauce
• Baking chicken
• Baking bread
• A roaring fireplace
• Books
• "The BPAL smell" (collectors will understand - it's the melding of all of my bottles and imps in their box!)
• Fresh soil
• Nutmeg
• Cloves
• Mulling spices
• A bakery
• Coffee
• The scent of a room full of plants
• An artist's studio
• Fresh hay (though I am very allergic!)
• A horse barn

I'm sure you'll be shocked to hear that my next post is going to be about scents I dislike. ;)

Welcome!

I want to know more about fragrance. I'm fascinated by it! I'm starting this site as a way to clearly document my passage from complete and utter perfume newbie to... what? I'm not sure where it will take me, actually! That's part of the fun, isn't it?

A little bit about me
I'm a writer and makeup artist. You may have read my beauty blog, BSB, where I have written about makeup, skincare, and even fragrance for the past few years. I'm also a mom and wife and a pretty decent napper.

My fragrance history
Just because I have reviewed some perfumes on my beauty blog doesn't mean I'm an expert. Far from it! Essentially, I am a typical fragrance consumer. Because of that blog, I have had the unique privilege of testing some perfumes I otherwise might not have known about. That has given me a peek through the cracked door of the fragrance world. I want to kick that door open!

I don't think I have a particularly good nose. It's probably average. That's why I thought this blog would be fun!

I am not someone who knows how to pick apart a perfume and discuss it like a fine wine. Nor am I a poet, like most fragrance reviewers.

At this stage in my fragrance development, I can identify some basic notes if I know they are there. I can't just sniff a scent and expound upon the jasmine heart and benzoin base. Nor can I identify a perfume on a passerby.

 
My goal here
In this blog, I intend to review fragrances, yes, and perhaps review them multiple times as my talent (?) develops. I also plan on learning about how fragrances are made, conceived and perceived. I will figure out "houses" and "noses" and "notes". What's a facet? What does civet smell like? Why are scents like Jicky and Chanel No. 5 and Joy so revered? I know enough to realize how little I know.

I hope you are interested in learning along with me! If you have suggestions, recommendations, pointers or corrections, please let me know. I need all the help and companionship I can get. It's going to be a bumpy ride!

xoxo
*jen