Euphorium Brooklyn has the answer for dark mysterious perfume: Pétales

Do you remember back when edgy, dark, shadowy makeup artistry line Illamasqua released their fragrance, Freak? The one in the dark tilted bottle with the snail on the side? 

Illamasqua Freak
Freakily disappointing 

That's about as dark as we got there. To say I was disappointed was a huge understatement. Nice perfume, but not worthy of the Illamasqua reputation. 

I envisioned something haunting, yet pretty. Something a little dangerous, but seductive. It was good but I wanted more. More darkness. More edge. More mystery. More staggering beauty. More... MORE. 

I found it.

Euphorium Brooklyn's Pétales fits the bill in spades. 

I swear it starts with an innocent olfactory feint that smells like, I know I'm nuts, but--- well, I get rootbeer for a second. The fizz of grapefruit and florals must be to blame, as they mix with the spicy sweetness of star anise and pepper, the bite of galbanum, and the smoothness of honey. 

But that's just a little game, because this flirtatious scent turns quickly into a much more mature scent.

Spray Pétales to wrap yourself in a slightly mysterious perfume with naughty indoles, an armful of blossoms, and a deeply sexy base. Then watch out! 

Pétales , Brooklyn Euphorium. Available at TwistedLily.com

Family: Floriental. Firmly unisex. Projection is moderate, though you could amp this mother with extra sprays - if you dare. Length of wear is "hours and hours." Cost is in the moderately-expensive range, but snatch up a sample for only $4 and see if you agree: it's worth it. I smell rose and lily and crisp greens snapping over sparkling citrus. A river of honeyed spice flows beneath, before ending in a musky animalic heaves.

Notes: Rose, Lavender, Orchid, Hyacinth, Linden Blossom, Lily, Iris, Orange Blossom, Violet, Orris, Jasmine, Geranium, Palmarosa, Pettigrain sur la Fleurs, Galbanum, Green Stem, Moss, Pink Grapefruit, Fig, Honey, Star Anise, Elemi, Black Pepper, Vetiver, Labdanum, Benzoin, Tolu Balsam, Ambergris, Indole, Tonka Musk

Perfume Review: Aqua Allegoria Pamplelune (Guerlain)

I do not want to smell like a grapefruit.

In fact, I do not want to eat a grapefruit. I think they are evil. A twisted joke on the tastebuds.

Why on earth would anyone want to smell like a grapefruit?

Not me.

When I went back to Sephora to purchase my Figue-Iris, I wanted to sample the other Guerlain Aqua Allegoria offerings on the shelf. I got Pamplelune (and a few others). Pamplelune is grapefruit.

What? She said it was the best seller in the group. (I'm easy)

When you look at the fragrance pyramid, you'll see that Pamplelune is grapefruit A LOT:

Sure, but does it have any grapefruit?

I don't want to smell like a grapefruit.

When I spritzed, I winced in some kind of protective reflex. You know what, though? It wasn't so bad. In fact, I kind of liked it.

via

The next day, I tried again: a nice wide spritz on one forearm, which I gently brushed against the other arm.

Not bad! In fact, kinda awesome. I can see where this would be a refreshing scent on a hot summer morning.

via

It's all grapefruit, for sure. Sour. Nearly tart. Not at all sweet. If there are flowers in there, they're off sulking in the corner, 'cause I don't smell them.

Like Figue-Iris, this perfume is light (though more intense than the fig). It opens brightly, then softens and pulls in closer to the body. There it stays.

The drydown on this seems shorter than Figue-Iris. I feel like there's some vetiver there, along with the vanilla and patchouli and "delicious grapefruit". The drydown leans slightly masculine, kind of cologne-y, but I don't think women should hesitate to wear it if they're into grapefruit.

Even this Pamplelune won't eat grapefruit.                                                  via

It's got a lot of grapefruit.

Worst.  Job. Ever.       via

In taking my notes, sometimes I respritz on clean skin to make sure I didn't miss anything worth mentioning. Imagine my shock when all of the sudden there was a fairly distinct sweaty armpit stink radiating from my arms! I think some of the respritz landed on the skin where I had originally sprayed and the top notes overlapped the basenotes. Well, all I can say is apparently:
Acidulous Grapefruit + Delicious Grapefruit = Body Odor.^[1]




I don't want to smell like body odor. Especially on a hot Summer day!

That said, I really like this perfume! (Sick, right?) I'm going to play with my sample a bit more as the weather warms up, but I've gotta say I can see myself wearing this - but only one spritz and no reapplication! As I've said before, that's no big deal to me, because I like to change my perfume during the day. Besides, I bet this would layer well with orange and lemon scents... unless they make more BO. I'm not good at math.

Fragrance: Aqua Allegoria Pamplelune

House: Guerlain
Perfumer: Mathilde Laurent
Notes: Acidulous grapefruit, flowers from Provenence, grapefruit, delicious grapefruit, patchouli, vanilla
Released: 1999
Sample: requested at Sephora.

Final Word: I want to smell like grapefruit!



So... do you want to smell like grapefruit? Do you prefer Oreos or pamplelunes?

Other reviews of Aqua Allegoria Pamplelune (Guerlain):

Legerdenez: Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Pamplelune
Pere De Pierre: Pamplelune (Guerlain)
The Scented Salamander: Perfume Review & Musings: Pamplelune by Guerlain (1998)
On Basenotes
On Fragrantica
On Makeup Alley

[1] Apparently some people also pick up the charming scent of "cat pee" from Pamplelune. Awesome.