This circle was started by a member called "30 Roses". In her generosity, she (and a few other folks) provided some perfume samples for the group to try. In fact, to be specific, we each get to sample thirty perfumes; each has a rose note or element to them.
Two boxes have been sent around. I got the first go at one of them. Members of the group each take turns sampling the scents and, if they like, writing up their impressions.
I have never been a huge rose fan, to be honest. Well, I mean, I love roses... they're beautiful! I don't really have the patience to grow roses. And I don't particularly want to smell like them. Or so I thought...
Here are my thoughts on the thirty (THIRTY!) perfumes I got to try:
- Une Rose Chypree (Andy Tauer)
I could write poetry about this scent! Well, if I were poetic, I could. Instead, let me just explain my experience. First: a little goes a LONG way. This is potent stuff. It opened with what seemed almost like a candied rose, but with that not-so-spicy cinnamon-sugar we used to sprinkle on toast when I was little. I started to smell a citrus - I guessed orange, but I'm clearly not good with citrus notes yet. It was clementine. Bergamot, which I still can't pick out, is also listed.
Twenty minutes later, I started picking up some slightly-spicy woody nuances, and a half an hour after that: cinnamon + rose + vetiver, all undulating. This has a definite vintage flavor and is neither bright nor brooding. It's amazingly grounded but light, somehow. I'd wear it anywhere, but with only a slight dab... Like I said: powerful! I'm going to get my own sample and decide if this is FBW. I bet it is. :)
NOTE: I stupidly dabbed this near a slight scratch on my hand, and it's itching like mad. If you have sensitive skin, you may want to consider that, though it's probably just me.
Edited to add: the drydown also features an amazing oakmoss and labdanum and vanilla and patchouli blend that make everything super creamy and velvety. I love this scent!
- Voluer de rose (L'Artisan Parfumeur)
Patchiuli. Dry patchouli. On me a lot of the time, patchouli takes over all else. This is one of those times. It's a nice patchouli, though!
- Rose Praline (Parfums de Rosine)
Bergamot and rose when wet, which then becomes a very linear caramel sugar-dipped rose. It's sweet, like a praline, but not teeth achingly so. I think that's because a faint, gentle tea note balances the sweetness. This is an excellent perfume and I will be getting a decant or sample and then, probably, a bottle.
- Harrod's Rose (Bond No. 9)
Perfume + a rose. A blast of sparkling perfume and a rose. It really smelled amusingly like an effervescent generic-but-nice perfume and a big rose to me! It made me giggle. That was only for a moment, then it became big white florals (tuberose, mainly) with a huge white rose in the middle! Not too-much tuberose, not too-much rose. Well-balanced. Really nice, but it reminds me of something (not Fracas) that I think I have...maybe the heart of Carolina Herrera?
- Citizen Queen (Juliette Has a Gun)
Attempt One: Opens with uber-quick aldehydes, and then totally disappears. WTH? Must be a musk I can't pick up. Hubby and eldest child can smell it. Eventually (5-8 minutes later) a soft violet-rose with a touch of powder lying over a base of a faint amber. Despite the very faint nature, I want to say I love this. I get more from sillage than up close; this is the first time I've encountered that as a fledgling purfumista-ita.
Second wearing: Aldehydes? Check.
Missing minutes? Nope. Straight into a rose-tinged, creamy violet and iris. There may be a pinch of patchouli in the base, but only a little. I'm going to have to get my own sample to experiment with. For one thing, I saw a review that suggested the rose is more prominent when sprayed instead of dabbed. Also, I think I love this...or maybe I want to love this. That's not the same thing. Something is bugging me about this. Maybe I just want it to be... more? Have some oomph it doesn't currently have? More research needed.
- Cannabis Rose (Fresh)
I was interested to smell this, since I enjoy the real deal smell. I was crushed to find Canabis Rose started with a metallic anise note that briskly turned into a pile of sweet tobacco. That's it - linear for about an hour at which point I scrubbed. Tobacco notes give me migraines. I wasn't fast enough and the migraine is here. In case you were wondering, the throw is good - hubby asked me from across the room what I was wearing (and said "thank god!" when I washed it off).
I tried to put on another scent but the tobacco kept rebounding - that sh*t is tenacious! I took a hot and long shower to get it off. I never smelled rose, nor did I get the munchies
Gorgeous green opening, with oakmoss and vetiver and a floral blend taking over. The slight bite of coriander is perfection! This is pretty linear, but that's not necessarily a bad thing. Will seek out a vintage bottle, definitely.
The first thing I smelled was a pear + chocolate blend, which sounds a lot weirder than it really was. That was quick. The first main theme is a green, chocolatey rose blend. There's a hint of pear there, too. This is so strange, but smells amazing!
- Aqua Allegoria Rosa Magnifica (Guerlain)
Sharp, astringent wet rose. Hyacinth + rose. Some might call this "soapy". Soliflore. Linear.
- Lipstick Rose (Frederick Malle)
- American Beauty (Dawn Spencer Hurowitz)
Very sharp and chemical scent. I scrubbed. :(
I hate saying that. I haven't tried any other DSH scents, but aim to do so. This vial was marked "prototype" and I wonder if it has turned? I have to admit, I was so repelled I wouldn't even try this again! I'm sorry, DSH fans... I wanted to be wowed, I really did! I won't be holding this against the line, though, because everyone speaks sooo highly of it.
Edited to add a GIGANTIC retraction/correction! I took a look at Warum's comment below and chastised myself into trying American Beauty again. The opening was a little rough for me (somewhat mentholated and minty - not my favorite), but it wasn't whatever-the-hell-happened the first time! Slowly, a rose bloomed. And bloomed. And bloomed some more. A big vaseful or gorgeous roses. Gradually, a wonderfully woody base was exposed. And I do mean gradually. It's almost molecule by molecule, a subtle switch to a gorgeous base that, on me, is patchouli-dominant but not at all overbearing. Really, really nice. Warum, thanks for unintentionally guilting me into a re-try!
- Fleur de The Rose Bulgare (Creed)
- Une Rose (Frederic Malle)
A rose frozen in amber? I dabbed a bit on a second time, and really loved the ambery dry-down. Must try a decant and experience this more!
- Evelyn (Crabtree & Evelyn) (pre-reformulation and renaming as Evelyn Rose)
Pure rose. Pink and pretty. I want to say "tea rose" but I'm not sure that's right.
- La Rose Jaqueminot (Coty)
Spicy deep dark rose. Amazing. Gorgeous. Carnation? Dark base - civet? Yum! This lasted FOREVER on my skin and was so sultry and lovely. Crazy beautiful!
- True Rose (Woods of Windsor)
- Diablo Rose (Rosine)
Minty rose. Toothpaste rose.
- Quel Amour! (edp)(Annick Goutal)
Minty rose spice turns to fruity rose.
- Tea Rose (The Perfumers Workshop)
Tea rose. Really pretty. Intense.
- English Rose (Yardley)
Very pretty red rose.
- Rose Absolue (Annick Goutal)
Really strong, multifaceted rose! Sadly it faded quickly on me and I'm a bit disappointed.
- Ce Soir ou Jamais (Annick Goutal)
Soft, powdery rose. A little fruity touch. Sweet.
I love this. Stunning. Woody and honeyed and lovely glowing florals. I am short on words with this one not because it's basic or simple, but because I think it's got so many facets and movements I don't dare talk about it when I only got such a brief sample period with it.
- Paris Jardins Romantique (YSL)
Floral burst, slightly soapy. Roses and lilacs are prominent to my nose. Very Spring-y and pretty. Would be a lovely young woman's or wedding scent.
- Paris (YSL)
viaIt's back. And a little orange spicy, maybe?The violet and rose are taking turns on the dancefloor.Far drydown is powdery rose.
- Fleurs de Bulgarie (Creed)
viaBergamot, a bit. That's the astringency, I guess. Maybe a bit salty It's like sniffing a rose from afar ... Very afar.Honestly, this is like a vase of old roses that have wilted and are molding a tiny bit. There's a whiff of soapiness, but it's like... Dirty soap? Old rose soap!Checking the notes, I suppose the ambergris is contributing the soapy scent (and that early salt)? If there indeed is musk here, it's one to which I'm anosmic.Two hours later: gone.
- Rose Splendide (Annick Goutal)
Lemon? Something bitter, but soft.
Green. A yellow green. Something I couldn't place- checked the notes: pear. Exactly! About 7-8'min in, a little spicy powder.
Pear? Rose? Pear? Rose? I'm getting whiplash.
Really lovely and sweet and new. Dewy, green pear-rose. Young. The ideal fruity floral.
- Lierre Rose (Parfums 06130)
Ylang-jasmine bomb. An 80's scent like Sung meets Chinatown (Bond No. 9) minus the peach and patchouli (though I do believe there is some patch here, just not a ton). Pretty, strong, floral.
- L'Ombre Danse L'Eau (Diptique)
- Sa Majeste la Rose (Serge Lutens)
A pretty Moroccan rose. It starts strong, then becomes a slightly powdered, honeyed beauty on top of some pretty woods. Should I ever want a rose soliflore, this would be it.
A few of the scents I got to try will definitely find their way into my collection. In fact, a few already have! I stumbled upon a mini Paris and a mini Coriandre while antiquing this past weekend! I'll still add large bottles when I encounter them, though.
Others I will be testing a bit more, with an eye towards a full bottle eventually: Une Rose Chypree (Andy Tauer), Rose Praline (Rosine), Citizen Queen (Juliette Has a Gun), Rose of Kali (Neil Morris), Une Rose (Frederic Malle), La Rose Jacqueminot (Coty) (if I can find it!), 1000 (Patou), and L'Ombre Danse L'Eau (Diptique).
Do you "do" rose scents? Are you a fan or do you find them too potpourri and sachet? What suggestions do you have for me for more rose adventures?