tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25437274013747928042024-03-16T02:10:35.428-07:00This Blog Really Stinks. (A perfume blog)An exploration of the world of fragrance and perfume.
Scent is an under-explored sense, at least in my world. No more! Follow along as I start as a rank novice and explore all things scented.jensunhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00041130248100842593noreply@blogger.comBlogger145125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2543727401374792804.post-6566988213764483542016-10-01T11:27:00.001-07:002016-10-01T12:29:58.204-07:00Momento Mori - by Mandy Aftel for Aftelier<div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Qqkt8T6qp5Q/V-__1wtDvTI/AAAAAAAANE0/aNwdoOIRc8Y/s640/blogger-image--1805943976.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Qqkt8T6qp5Q/V-__1wtDvTI/AAAAAAAANE0/aNwdoOIRc8Y/s640/blogger-image--1805943976.jpg"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">I'm obsessed with The Day of the Dead because it celebrates life rather than focusing on loss. Similarly, momento mori jewelry and art are meant to remind the wearers/viewers of their mortality while often also using relics (hair is a common one) of departed loved ones as a way to remember their lives fondly. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Honestly, I'm always drawn to ornate and beautiful momento mori jewelry when I see it in antique stores, but am also repelled. This perfume captures the beauty and earthiness of these precious rings, lockets, and brooches well, and I'm at once entranced and put off by it. At least, I was the first time I wore it.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><b>Mandy Aftel's</b> tribute to these unique pieces of mourning jewelry is simply called <i>Momento Mori</i>. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-dd_s76xmap0/V-__3jLdHfI/AAAAAAAANE4/y7ROa-g3jxM/s640/blogger-image-477346730.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-dd_s76xmap0/V-__3jLdHfI/AAAAAAAANE4/y7ROa-g3jxM/s640/blogger-image-477346730.jpg"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">A natural perfume, as all of the <b>Aftelier</b> scents are, based on "the musklike smell of skin," is a tricky one. And it was a labor of love for the perfumer.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">In Mandy's words:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">"<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">This was a deeply personal perfume for me to create. <i>Memento Mori </i>is about the tender memories of the skin and body of someone with whom you have been intimate, and the ways that you treasure and long for that which you remember when they are lost to you. We want to hold the vanished beauty close even as we experience the piercing quality of memory."</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-81X8cx4bI8w/V_AAAsXYfuI/AAAAAAAANFI/ebQABhoCTZg/s640/blogger-image--1603906136.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-81X8cx4bI8w/V_AAAsXYfuI/AAAAAAAANFI/ebQABhoCTZg/s640/blogger-image--1603906136.jpg"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><i>Momento Mori </i>opened with a fiercely animalic pulse on my skin. It's buttery, intimate flesh, and there's no getting away from it. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">After a half an hour or so, the scent settles on my skin and becomes more translucent and diaphonous. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Don't be mistaken! It's still animalic and raw, but to my mind Mandy's showing us how grief morphs and becomes a little easier to stomach. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wCmV_ABS--s/V-___GS7oeI/AAAAAAAANFE/elfZuh9GPH0/s640/blogger-image--198296547.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wCmV_ABS--s/V-___GS7oeI/AAAAAAAANFE/elfZuh9GPH0/s640/blogger-image--198296547.jpg"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">The heart of the perfume is softly floral, more gentle yet. You're leaning in to catch the intimate smell of a loved one's skin. Your memories are fond, if still slightly unsettling. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">I find myself pressing my nose into my skin at this stage, really enjoying the unusual interplay of notes: rose, often used in funerals, dances with more skinlike notes as the scent morphs again towards its drydown. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Hours of drydown ensue, leaving us with more skin, more intimacy, more memories. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">While patchouli and civet are present, neither dominates the scent, which keeps it still in the more intimate, personal realm rather than veering toward the barnyard. This stage of the scent is almost transluscent, like the veil of a memory. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Lnz8QYsRH_k/V-__0BV_QzI/AAAAAAAANEw/I-XituD3YPU/s640/blogger-image-1367952868.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><font color="#000000"><img border="0" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Lnz8QYsRH_k/V-__0BV_QzI/AAAAAAAANEw/I-XituD3YPU/s640/blogger-image-1367952868.jpg"></font></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><i>Momento Mori</i> is a masterful show of perfumery. Intricate and yet blunt, much like the jewelry it's meant to represent.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">The journey taken from top to bottom of <i>Momento Mori </i>is delightful, though this scent isn't going to be for everyone. The daring perfumista/o (this scent is not gendered) may enjoy this fleshly ride through love and loss, just as only certain people are going to enjoy momento mori art and jewelry.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">I, personally, love the journey. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-VGpfWf-HQpY/V-__5MRII9I/AAAAAAAANE8/TYAakIMtSjU/s640/blogger-image--704750911.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-VGpfWf-HQpY/V-__5MRII9I/AAAAAAAANE8/TYAakIMtSjU/s640/blogger-image--704750911.jpg"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Top: butter, orris, phenylacetic acid.<br style="margin: 0px; box-sizing: inherit;">Middle: Turkish rose absolute, phenylethyl alcohol.<br style="margin: 0px; box-sizing: inherit;">Base: beta ionone, ambreine, ambergris, antique civet, patchoulyl acetate.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Now available at Aftelier.com </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-MMdkiPtrnC8/V_AOdCtRflI/AAAAAAAANFY/Ygh9medZoUs/s640/blogger-image--815828214.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-MMdkiPtrnC8/V_AOdCtRflI/AAAAAAAANFY/Ygh9medZoUs/s640/blogger-image--815828214.jpg"></a></div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Sample provided by the perfumer. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-E5QY5JY_x-U/V-__9gBKCpI/AAAAAAAANFA/TgeJ_J9p_DY/s640/blogger-image--911452117.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-E5QY5JY_x-U/V-__9gBKCpI/AAAAAAAANFA/TgeJ_J9p_DY/s640/blogger-image--911452117.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><br></div><br></div>jensunhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00041130248100842593noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2543727401374792804.post-83164940423074798642016-09-12T09:41:00.001-07:002016-09-12T09:41:51.448-07:00Gardenia Absoluta by Juan Perez of Exotic Island Perfumes<div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-vclmg2j68kY/V9bazoXj1CI/AAAAAAAANEQ/sKUC9hItM8Q/s640/blogger-image--104963464.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-vclmg2j68kY/V9bazoXj1CI/AAAAAAAANEQ/sKUC9hItM8Q/s640/blogger-image--104963464.jpg"></a></div>Today I'm wafting a tropical scent in the best of fashions. Straight from Puerto Rico from <b>Exotic Island Perfumer,</b> Juan Perez, I've got <i>Gardenia Absoluta.</i> It's exactly what it sounds like: a gardenia-centric scent. <div><br></div><div>Here are the notes:</div><div><div>Clementine, bergamot, red fruits, gardenia, white flowers, white pepper, ambergris, mahogany, teak wood, sandalwood and white musk.<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"> </span></div><div><br></div><div>It smells of gardenias in a wooden box, sprinkled with pepper. A little heady, feminine-leaning, and long-wearing, this perfume is glorious and typical of Juan's deft work with florals. Very tropical. Very much "yes." </div></div><div><br></div><div>Get it on Etsy at ExoticIslandAromas. </div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4DXZPp0Qhfl6AD4-zQ-pE380xVeiYrbbsWFb0O6ibE9TOL4IOO_GxubWafinLCL6ZIv3pEmifY8j5WixCfDs3HbMEZJbaYoQbs-_8K8CAK3KnwJx51Cgag89nq1De4H-Pj_FoEoZwiwN_/s640/blogger-image-1527664242.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4DXZPp0Qhfl6AD4-zQ-pE380xVeiYrbbsWFb0O6ibE9TOL4IOO_GxubWafinLCL6ZIv3pEmifY8j5WixCfDs3HbMEZJbaYoQbs-_8K8CAK3KnwJx51Cgag89nq1De4H-Pj_FoEoZwiwN_/s640/blogger-image-1527664242.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div>Disclaimer: sample provided by the perfumer</div><div><br></div>jensunhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00041130248100842593noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2543727401374792804.post-83838849852025930612016-09-08T15:49:00.001-07:002016-09-10T16:05:38.749-07:00Magnolia de Verano by The Exotic Island Perfumer<div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6BUnJbo-uUI/V9Hq3aPTIWI/AAAAAAAAND4/-H44mpFKQOg/s640/blogger-image-1771512428.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6BUnJbo-uUI/V9Hq3aPTIWI/AAAAAAAAND4/-H44mpFKQOg/s640/blogger-image-1771512428.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div>I got the opportunity to try a sample of <i>Magnolio de Verano</i>, by <b>The Exotic Island Perfumer</b>, recently. This is a reworked version of the previously released 2012 scent. </div><div><br></div><div>A fresh lemony sparkle opens this perfume beautifully. It's a gorgeous blend of Italian lemon, citron, and bergamot. </div><div><br></div><div>The scent quickly settles into what must be a pretty magnolia. Yes, I live in Virginia and don't know exactly what magnolia smells like. Eventually this folds into a creaminess that I can't get enough of. According to the perfumer, Juan Perez, this is likely the jasmine he's included, alongside the magnolia running along this whole scent, and it's lovely. </div><div><br></div><div>All of this beauty culminates in more creamy goodness: a beautiful sandalwood meets cedar meets Haitian Vetiver.</div><div><br></div><div>New to this version: according to Juan Perez, this time it's "more about the flower and less about the tree." The citrus top notes are now a better quality, the magnolia flower runs throughout the length of the scent, as previously mentioned, and the woods "are more relaxed." </div><div><br></div><div><i>Magnolia de Verano</i> wears thickly for several hours with a softly wafting creamy base lasting far longer. It's, for me, full bottle worthy. Yet another slam dunk for this underrated perfumer. Look for it on Etsy soon! (ExoticIslandAromas)</div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div>jensunhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00041130248100842593noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2543727401374792804.post-71696952379222874172016-06-25T17:32:00.004-07:002016-06-25T17:53:07.168-07:00Rose Praline, Les Parfums de Rosine- No pralines here<div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue light" , , "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-PNLwXVCyMyE/V28cFwT89QI/AAAAAAAANBY/Viooy0msWEo/s640/blogger-image--69959333.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-PNLwXVCyMyE/V28cFwT89QI/AAAAAAAANBY/Viooy0msWEo/s400/blogger-image--69959333.jpg" width="241"></a></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue light" , , "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif;">I'm back with a f<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue light" , , "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif;">airly simpl<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue light" , , "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif;">e little review. </span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue light" , , "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif;">Let's get one thing straight first: "praline" here, in <i>Rose Pra</i><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue light" , , "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif;"><i>line</i>,</span> means "chocolate bonbon" not "sugared almond." Ok? It's French. I Googl<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue light" , , "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif;">ed. A<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue light" , , "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif;">nyway, tha<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue light" , , "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif;">t info</span></span></span> will change your expectations of this scent dramatically. </span></div>
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This offering by<b> Les Parfums de Rosine</b>, who does all rose perfumes, starts strong and fast with a heady, sharp rose that has a bright and juicy citrus twist. Sadly, I'm missing the cardamom, one of my favorite things, but other reviewers find it notable. </div>
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After a short time, tea unfolds like blossoms. For me, it's dry and soft. Other reviewers find it prominent and dominant. I swear my nose is working again - I just don't pick up what other people are putting down.</div>
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Shortly, a deeper rose emerges, softer than the opening, paired with a nice dry chocolate. This is the part I snuffle my nose into on my wrist. <br><br>The drydown is a natural progression to amber, cocoa, musk and sandalwood. <br></div>
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This perfume is powdered cocoa-dusted rose and a cup of tea.<i> </i></blockquote>
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<i>Rose Praline</i> is linear, maybe. But full. Not cloying (once that first hit dies back). Not overly rich. A gentle intro into roses but not fully gourmand in my opinion. </blockquote>
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"Oriental Vanilla" per Fragrantica; <span style="color: #0000ee;">p</span>rojection is moderate with a dabber sample, perhaps I could imagine it more dramatic, sprayed; longevity is good, I get hours and hours. This scent is feminine-to-unisex. <span style="font-family: "helvetica neue light" , , "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif;"> </span></div>
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<span style="background-color: rgba(255 , 255 , 255 , 0); font-family: "helvetica neue light" , , "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif;">Top notes are cardamom, bergamot and rose oil; middle notes are geranium, dark chocolate, rose and tea; base notes are amber, musk, sandalwood and cacao. (Fragrantica)</span></div>
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<a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-mxHBDe1NCEQ/V28cHkJzkrI/AAAAAAAANBg/GTp5Y5sFq44/s640/blogger-image--399738342.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-mxHBDe1NCEQ/V28cHkJzkrI/AAAAAAAANBg/GTp5Y5sFq44/s640/blogger-image--399738342.jpg"></a></div>
Disclosure: sample provided by reviewer</div>
jensunhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00041130248100842593noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2543727401374792804.post-72354867537754472052016-06-20T06:34:00.001-07:002016-06-20T06:34:44.385-07:00Allergies.<div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ZNP1ZJH5yNo/V2fw8-UV9mI/AAAAAAAANBE/6sLsc2syUYc/s640/blogger-image--1889247290.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ZNP1ZJH5yNo/V2fw8-UV9mI/AAAAAAAANBE/6sLsc2syUYc/s640/blogger-image--1889247290.jpg"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">This blog has been out of commission due to seasonal allergies. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">I have never had Spring allergies before! I also caught a helluva cold that turned into bronchitis. Joy. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Between those situations the schnoz hasn't been registering scents. I put on a perfume and minutes later it's dead air. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Hey, do you get that nasty pollen covering everything like we do here in the Mid Atlantic? That stuff's almost gone and I'm hoping my nose starts working again once it is.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">So tell me: do you have allergies? Have you ever developed one outta nowhere? </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">xoxo,</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Jen</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-CgdTgbNhs7Y/V2fw7MR2JOI/AAAAAAAANA8/0B9ZF5IotDs/s640/blogger-image-1445759055.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-CgdTgbNhs7Y/V2fw7MR2JOI/AAAAAAAANA8/0B9ZF5IotDs/s640/blogger-image-1445759055.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div>jensunhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00041130248100842593noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2543727401374792804.post-64157810516410845382015-12-29T03:01:00.000-08:002015-12-29T04:18:08.964-08:00Bat: a new scent by Zoologist Perfumes has me flipping!<div><br></div>
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<a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-14feeRY-JN4/VoFoD5VBeoI/AAAAAAAAM-E/PUu6ziUHqhg/s640/blogger-image--475666671.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-14feeRY-JN4/VoFoD5VBeoI/AAAAAAAAM-E/PUu6ziUHqhg/s640/blogger-image--475666671.jpg"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Those of you who know me well are aware of my affinity for bats. To the rest of you, that may come as a surprise. But I love those little (and some not-so-little!) pollinators.<br></span><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br></span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">When I heard about <b>Zoologist Perfumes</b>' new addition to their animal cruelty-free line shortly before they released it, I went-- well, a bit batty. It was going to be called - it <b>is</b> called - <i>Bat</i>! </span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br></span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Ok, there was dancing. Really. And lots of squealing and emojis. Ask <b>Victor Wong</b>, owner and creative director of the line. </span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br></span></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8RjO9_TReova3vMkC4ZjJUaDHeVtRzQCAWkaDqluSWjdI16TND1IVMPsnDZUo2fxCTKFwYxm28PfajtpBnh9BC-AGdeXABQcg65FYUh8oLpCJjZqcn6nn_SAnlwXe4G4aWT6y52tt_ELJ/s640/blogger-image--1836442151.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><font color="#000000"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8RjO9_TReova3vMkC4ZjJUaDHeVtRzQCAWkaDqluSWjdI16TND1IVMPsnDZUo2fxCTKFwYxm28PfajtpBnh9BC-AGdeXABQcg65FYUh8oLpCJjZqcn6nn_SAnlwXe4G4aWT6y52tt_ELJ/s640/blogger-image--1836442151.jpg"></font></a></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br></span></div><div><div>And when I found out the nose (perfumer) for the scent was <b>Ellen Covey</b>, the dancing and squealing and emojis started all over again. I swear I'm lucky Victor and I are still friends.*</div><div><br></div><div>*We are, right? Victor? <b><i>Victor? </i></b></div><div><br></div><div>Ahem. Let me sort that all out later. </div><div><br></div><div><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-siF1y52oRKg/VoFn-AjULSI/AAAAAAAAM9k/4RpRBHuQ4qg/s640/blogger-image-1374893447.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><font color="#000000"><img border="0" src="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-siF1y52oRKg/VoFn-AjULSI/AAAAAAAAM9k/4RpRBHuQ4qg/s640/blogger-image-1374893447.jpg"></font></a></div><div><br></div><div><i>Anyway</i>, I was ecstatic to receive my sample and immediately sprayed it on. There may have been more dancing, and squealing, and emojis, and an immediate Facebook post- but really, can you stop fixating on the dancing? You're embarrassing me. </div><div><br></div><div>Let's talk perfume. <span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">Here's what happens when you wear it:</span></div><div><br></div><div>Immediately you're transported to the world of the fruit bat. Any one. Pick one. (There are 173 species of fruit bats)</div><div><br></div><div><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-BWujgBfdIt4/VoFoCX4pAoI/AAAAAAAAM98/1vp6pYO2tZo/s640/blogger-image-89891558.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><font color="#000000"><img border="0" src="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-BWujgBfdIt4/VoFoCX4pAoI/AAAAAAAAM98/1vp6pYO2tZo/s640/blogger-image-89891558.jpg"></font></a></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">Here's a leaf-nosed bat, like the one on the packaging.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><br></span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">Our <i>Bat</i> loves a little banana and some fig. There's also dense vegetal earth and rich plant life, and that sweet smell of fruit. A mineral tang from home -a cluster of rocks or a cave- cling to the air. </span></div><div><br></div><div>Slowly... ever. so. slowly... the scent turns. Musky and furry smells unfold. We're smelling a watercolor version of the bat himself now. Not too strong or pungent, but decidedly animalistic. This scent is not dark, rather it is dusk toned. The bat's preferred launch time, their favorite hunting time. Leather notes sketch out the bat's soft wings...</div><div><br></div><div>Eventually, the night ends and the stronger base notes begin to fade. As the moon sets and the bats return to roost, we're left with a faint but beautiful sandalwood and tonka sunrise. </div><div><br></div><div>I've never quite experienced a nuanced, two-step beauty of a base quite like this one! </div><div><br></div><div><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wOVKnNRoNUA/VoFoA2n7PMI/AAAAAAAAM90/W9PhUGZsEp8/s640/blogger-image-1699635612.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><font color="#000000"><img border="0" src="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wOVKnNRoNUA/VoFoA2n7PMI/AAAAAAAAM90/W9PhUGZsEp8/s640/blogger-image-1699635612.jpg"></font></a></div><div><br></div><div>Projection: moderate-to-close depending on how heavy-handed you are; longevity: 6 hours-ish or more; Smells like a watercolor painting of fruit and earth, then musky leather with a sandalwood drydown. Price: good for niche; samples available. <u>www.zoologistperfumes.com</u></div><div>Full-bottle-worthy.</div><div><br></div><div><b>Available December 31st, 2015!</b></div><div><br></div></div></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Apologies: for the layout of this post due to computer problems. Usually my posts are a little more nicely laid-out. </span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><br></span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">Disclaimer: Sample provided by Zoologist Perfumes</span></div></div>
<br><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div>jensunhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00041130248100842593noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2543727401374792804.post-79411820241783161272015-12-06T13:37:00.000-08:002015-12-06T18:50:16.341-08:00Spritz Me With Mexican Chocolate!<div>
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<i>Chocolatl</i>, by <b>Euphorium Brooklyn</b>, was a scent that had me pacing back and forth by the mailbox while I waited for the sample to come for me to review.</div>
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I'm a little obsessed with all things Mexican and that most certainly includes c<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">hampurrado, or "Mexican hot chocolate," something I was particularly craving at the time I found out about this scent and learned I was getting a sample of this new release. </span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Chocolate originated in Mexico, originally called </span><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">xocoatl, an Aztec word, which was originally a bitter (not sugary sweet!) drink made from cocoa beans. (I used to make chocolate - I have weird chocolate knowledge.)</span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">When I was in Oaxaca, I eschewed morning coffee for the delicious champurrado each morning, hand mixed with a special wooden whisk (I own one) to create a fabulous blend of spices and chocolate that ended up oddly gritty and thickly foamy. I highly recommend it.</span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Anyway, that craving was running high and I was drinking my own sub-par homemade version (I can't get it thick enough!), when this sample landed. </span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Sprayed immediately. </span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Here's what we are expecting, according to the website:</span></div>
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DARK MEXICAN COCOA</div>
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SPICE & PILONCILLO</div>
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TZAPOTL FRUIT, VANILLA & HONEY</div>
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BALSAM & MUSK</div>
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Translations: piloncillo is a cone-shaped sugar kind of like brown sugar; tzapotl fruit is the name for something also called "chocolate pudding fruit."</blockquote>
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I'd say <b>Euphorium Brooklyn</b> satisfied their brief well. This is a definite dark chocolate scent through most of the development. Not sweet (though not as spicy as my drink). It's got some sweetness to it, a honeyed stickiness. Delightful. I'd say your top and heart notes are pretty much the same. Not much change there. </div>
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About two hours in, though, when we're headed to dry-down, some of what I consider Brooklyn Euphorium's signature, <i>quirkiness</i>, kicks in. </div>
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Balsam. </div>
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This is odd. </div>
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At first I started to get a bitter note. A green bitterness creeping in. I was put off, to be honest, as it was still lingering with the chocolate, but then as it started to truly swap itself for the heart notes and came into its own, I was won over. <span style="font-family: "helvetica neue light" , , "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif;">And mind you - this is all me sticking my nose in my wrist at several-minute intervals. Subsequent, less-attentive wearings skip the awkward teenage gangly phase because I'm not looking for it. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue light" , , "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif;">The drydown-proper is balsam and musk and a little raunch, without which it just wouldn't be a Brooklyn Euphorium scent. Since I'm recently a balsam/fir ho, this pleases me. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue light" , , "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif;">I find it interesting the choice to add Tolu Balsam, as it does keep this a little on the "odd" side. Tolu is a bit more medicinal and sharp than Peru Balsam, also used here. It's noticeable. As I said - quirky. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue light" , , "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif;">I'd classify this as a comfort scent times ten. </span><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue light" , , "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif;">I'm truly pleased with this scent. I may splurge and buy it. </span></div>
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<a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Kn0SMQ1bCss/VmRr2ATpDbI/AAAAAAAAM80/ihAoCAjwl8w/s640/blogger-image-444882965.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="236" src="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Kn0SMQ1bCss/VmRr2ATpDbI/AAAAAAAAM80/ihAoCAjwl8w/s400/blogger-image-444882965.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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FRAGRANCE NOTES<br />
Mexican Cocoa, Nutmeg, Clove, Cassia, Black Pepper, Myrrh, Coffee, Neroli, Davana, Raisin, Prune, Labdanum, Angelica Root, Honey, Vanilla, Caramel, Palm Sugar, Peru Balsam, Benzoin, Tolu Balsam, Castoreum, Musk</blockquote>
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<a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-zzZ0nUJgnFU/VmRr3on4MXI/AAAAAAAAM88/t0W0sr3iI9c/s640/blogger-image-1114648729.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="301" src="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-zzZ0nUJgnFU/VmRr3on4MXI/AAAAAAAAM88/t0W0sr3iI9c/s400/blogger-image-1114648729.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Unisex. Sillage: Skin scent to close-to-skin; wear: 5 hours-ish; <span style="font-family: "helvetica neue light" , , "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif;">Pretty much chocolate, then balsam and musks. Available exclusively at <a href="http://twistedlily.com/product-category/brands/euphorium-brooklyn/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"><b>Twisted Lily</b></a>. Prices are niche-normal. </span></blockquote>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue light" , , "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif;">To be released in December. </span></blockquote>
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Visit <b>Brooklyn Euphorium</b> @ <a href="http://euphoriumbrooklyn.com/">euphoriumbrooklyn.com</a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Disclosure: sample provided by the house for review</span></div>
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jensunhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00041130248100842593noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2543727401374792804.post-69874423360937358672015-12-05T14:14:00.002-08:002015-12-05T14:16:32.336-08:00Down-and-Dirty Review: Porcini mushroom bouquet<div>
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<a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7QhXRxZ9k94/VmNdBksId2I/AAAAAAAAM7Y/goCv8jffHo4/s640/blogger-image--1177403120.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7QhXRxZ9k94/VmNdBksId2I/AAAAAAAAM7Y/goCv8jffHo4/s640/blogger-image--1177403120.jpg" /></a></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Perfume .025ml $125</td></tr>
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<i>Cepes and Tuberose </i>is weird. </div>
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I like weird.</div>
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This perfume, by <b>Aftelier Perfumes</b>, is intensely earthy, like picking up a handful of gritty Spring dirt, bursting with both decay and new life, and letting it run through your fingers. </div>
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It is also deeply floral, like sticking your full face in the most gorgeous bouquet of expensive tuberose, accented with a few pristine white roses bred for scent. </div>
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This is one of those scents that needs to be smelled to be understood, as cepes -porcini mushrooms- seemingly makes no sense whatsoever with perfume. </div>
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By mixing the two essences, cepes and tuberose, perfumer <b>Mandy Aftel</b> brings an earthiness out of <br />
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the tuberose that is unexpected and simply startling in its loveliness. </div>
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This scent picks up an almost leathery tone, like the inside of a very old and worn vintage bag hiding a perfume-laden women's hankie inside. A musky scent is folded in (that's musky, not musty!). And the scent fades slowly away. </div>
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So, in the end, it all makes sense. It gets where it gets in an unconventional way and ends up being stunning. </div>
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<i>Cepes and Tuberose</i> is weird. I like weird. It's one of my favorites in the <b>Aftelier</b> line-up, and my next purchase. I consider the whole experience quite sensual. </div>
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Unisex. Sillage: skinscent to moderate if you are an enthusiastic sprayer; length of wear: 4-5 hours+; price: reasonable for niche; the mini makes it quite affordable. This is a unique fougere scent that may not be for everyone, but I highly recommend. Personally, I think it's highly sexy. Samples of perfume or edp for $6; mini perfume bottle for $50; other sizes available: <a href="http://www.aftelier.com/searchresults.asp?Search=cepes+and+tuberose&Submit=Submit" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Aftelier.com</a></blockquote>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Disclosure: Review based on the edp; sample graciously provided by the perfumer. </span></div>
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jensunhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00041130248100842593noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2543727401374792804.post-14430945443395766212015-12-04T16:32:00.003-08:002015-12-04T16:36:16.747-08:00Speed Review: Hermes Eau Claire des Merveilles<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
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<i>Hermes Eau Claire des Merveilles</i> by <b>Hermes </b>makes me think of F. Scott Fitzgerald. <br />
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Bear with me. <br />
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I wear it and think of wonderful vintage, classy, amazing things a la <u>The Great Gatsby</u>, or any of Fitzgerald's other works set, as they are, in the Jazz Age. I'm not saying that women of this period would necessarily have worn this, but that wearing it puts me in this frame of mind, if you follow me.<br />
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Like a glass of champagne, <i>Eau Claire </i>has a beautiful sparkly opening, this one a bright citrus, subtly bubbling over. Then a lovely powdery vanilla-slash-floral, light, airy thing happens that's simply charming and leaves a smile in its wake. Lastly, a soft, ever-so-faint touch of the woods that are typical of <i>Eau de Merveilles </i>lingers warmly. <br />
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Oh, and since it's <b>Hermes </b>it smells expensive and classy, darling. <br />
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Unisex. Sillage is minimal-to-moderate; wear is about 4-6 hours; price is reasonable. Find it in fine department stores. This is an <i>Eau de Merveilles</i> flanker, but should get more attention in its own right. Besides, the bottle - at any size - is amazing. </blockquote>
jensunhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00041130248100842593noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2543727401374792804.post-614839185912132722015-12-02T07:12:00.000-08:002015-12-02T07:13:10.929-08:00Quick & Dirty Review: Raghba<div style="text-align: center;">
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A nice "quick and dirty" review for a great cheapie perfume that every Oriental lover should have on the shelves. <br />
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<i>Raghba </i>came my was as many perfumes do, in a bag of samples from another perfumista. He was sure I'd love it. <br />
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Well, he was correct!<br />
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This is "Middle Eastern <i>Shalimar</i>." That's funny, because "Shalimar" is a Middle Eastern word, but anyway...<br />
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I don't know where this comes from but that's Arabic on the front and "<i>Raghba</i>" is sure sounding Middle Eastern. It's made by <b>Lattafa Perfumes.</b> (Aha! They are from the United Arab Emierates! Quick story. When I was in grade school, we had to pick a country to do a report on and I picked the UAE and it became a bit of a joke, because back then no one had heard of this tiny Middle Easten country before. My family often joked about it. Who's laughing now, bitches?! Anybody heard of a little "town" called Dubai?!)</div>
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The formula is a oud-based one, so "check," Middle Eastern. But don't get your knickers twisted<span style="color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 18px; white-space: nowrap;">,</span></span> any of you, this is not all-caps-exclamation-points OUD!!!!!<b><br /></b><br />
It's a soft oud with candy on top. There's loads of vanilla. Supposedly sugar. I smell some incense. Apparently there's sandalwood - yeah, I'll buy that. And musk, but not all hairy man chest and chains stuff. <br />
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<i>Raghba </i>is a sweet Oriental scent in the vein of <i>Shalimar </i>but modern and low-key oudy. And cheap. If you think that sounds fun, you can't beat the price and it's one of the few times I suggest a blind-buy.<br />
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Hey, I love it and I don't really even like oud! <br />
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(Got mine on Amazon. Seems to be the cheapest --- and fastest shipping)<br />
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Unisex. Family: Oriental; Throw/sillage: Pretty damn good. Your elevator mates will smell it; Longevity: if this is a scrubber you'll hate me; Price: inexpensive. Creamy, rich, sweet woods and vanilla. Could see some people finding it a bit cloying. Wouldn't wear it in the heat probably - only I totally did. </div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;"><b><i>Have you tried </i>Raghba<i>? Any of the others from the </i>Lattafa <i>line? What are your feelings about oud? Does it bother you when people compare things to Shalimar? How do you feel about hairy chests? </i></b></span></blockquote>
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jensunhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00041130248100842593noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2543727401374792804.post-73523424027501991302015-11-30T10:32:00.001-08:002015-11-30T10:32:20.901-08:00Smoking vanilla with Mandy Aftel<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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This blog only temporarily seems like an ode to <b>Mandy Aftel</b>. She simply is one of the first to pick up on the fact that I am blogging again, and I also like to imagine that we're friends, so she has submitted quite a bit of recent work for me to review. Also, she's just so good I have no reluctance to write because there are none of those not-so-glowing reviews that are always waiting around the corner for a perfume reviewer. Don't worry, I have other reviews coming (DSH (!) among others). </div>
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Today I'm wafting quite literally. I'm smoking! I have an edp on the left hand and a parfum concentration of the same scent on the right. I am so dang lucky I can't stand it. I've got on <i>Vanilla Smoke</i>, and it's so stunning I had to ponder on this review a while before I could get my mind together to write it. (It didn't stop me from buying mini.)</div>
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So, as is clear from the above, <b>Aftelier Perfumes</b>' <i>Vanilla Smoke</i> comes in two concentrations: an edp/eau de parfum and a parfum/perfume strength. I'll do ye olde compare/contrast here. Remember those papers we had to do in school, comparing and contrasting things? It's going to be like that, but a little more interesting. Well, I hope so. I mean, you're here because you want to be, not because someone forced you to read this review, right? If they did, let me know who did so I can slip them a fiver. That's awesome. </div>
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The general rundown of what this scent smells like is going to sound the same. It's a smokey vanilla, folks. Try not to fall over in shock. </div>
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This is a fairly straight-forward, "simplistic" scent, but don't let that statement fool you. This is not to say the scent is basic or not dynamic. </div>
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According to the perfumer, top notes are yellow mandarin, Siam wood, saffron absolute, and vanillin. There are no "heart" notes listed. Base notes are listed as vanilla absolute, lapsang souchong (tea), ambergris, and coumarin. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 12.8px;">My vision of <i>Vanilla Smoke</i> edp</span></td></tr>
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<b>Vanilla Smoke - THE EDP</b><br />
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I'm sort of "over" breaking down scents into notes. I'm finding it tedious, trite, and insulting to the perfumes themselves, but due to the fact that I'm comparing/contrasting two versions of the same scent, I'll do it this one last time.<br />
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When I wear the edp version of this scent, I find it more transcluscent and bright than the other.<br />
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This scent opens with a bit more of the sparkle brightness of the mandarin and the Siam wood.<br />
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I get a distinct rootbeer note (or more distinctly, birchbeer - have you had it before?). I spoke with Mandy and we decided this little trick was most likely the saffron. It made me giggle the first time I smelled it, but now I do find it annoying. It passes quickly, to my relief.<br />
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I find the edp airy, bright, sheer, open. It's got more space in it than the perfume.<br />
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The edp version of <i>Vanilla Smoke </i>stays lighter and more flirtatious, in my opinion, than the parfum strength, though she does pick up a bit of depth from the ambergris, tea, and coumarin later in her development.<br />
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This is a lovely version of the scent and I do adore it.<br />
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<span style="font-weight: bold;">Vanilla Smoke - THE PERFUME</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 12.8px;">My vision of <i>Vanilla Smoke</i> perfume<br /></span></td></tr>
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When it came time to order one of these, because I totally "needed" this in my life, I ordered the perfume mini. I'm addicted to these minis, by the way. They are petite little bon bons that should be available by every perfumer - price-wise, right in the zone, size-wise, so portable (I always have at least two in my wallet (my wallet!).<br />
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I am totally off topic now, aren't I?<br />
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Let's do this. When it came time to order one of these, because I totally "needed" this in my life, I ordered the perfume mini. The perfume strength speaks to me more.<br />
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While the notes list seems identical, the way they play out on the skin is subtly, but markedly, different.<br />
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The "birchbeer accord" is present, but fleeting. The perfume strength Vanilla Smoke dives more directly into vanilla, spending less time flirting with the mandarin and Siam wood. I smell them. They peek out and then they're gone. This is all about the vanilla and the tea and the coumarin, though.<br />
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We're all basenotes, all the time, in this version. And once those deepen, we get that ambergris, and the musky husky depth happens and we get sexy vibes all over the place. This is flirty vanilla all over. And yet it still remains breathy and open, never cloying and heavy.<br />
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It's brilliant, really, as any other vanilla-centric scent I've smelled with darker notes like this has always taken that heavy-breathing into a smothering place that isn't terribly unpleasant but certainly gets cloying in hot weather. This, <i>Vanilla Smoke</i>, would never! I can see wearing this in any temperature whatsoever.<br />
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And so that, ladies and gentlemen, is why I had to have a bottle. And I may go back and get some of that edp, as well, because it is also beautiful. Speaking of gentlemen: YES, you can wear this. PLEASE DO. I encourage it. Either strength.<br />
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GCxeQ36OJdA/VlyRx5GVzkI/AAAAAAAAM4w/VH8Z1x_Kyl8/s1600/SAMPLE-EDP-VanillaSmoke-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GCxeQ36OJdA/VlyRx5GVzkI/AAAAAAAAM4w/VH8Z1x_Kyl8/s200/SAMPLE-EDP-VanillaSmoke-1.jpg" width="200" /></a><br />
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Unisex. Projection: skin scent; Length-of-wear: edp- 4-6 hours+, perfume 6-8 hours+. The premise of the scent, as set out by Mandy, is that <i>Vanilla Smoke </i>is meant to be sexy, exotic, mysterious. I accept that premise, however I find the edp's version of sexy to be a more innocent, flirtatious type of sexy and exotic, like a young woman in a foreign bar you'd meet on a vacation, while the perfume is more like meeting the Mata Hari. The pricepoint is reasonable for niche perfume, and the packaging is always a beautiful experience. Samples are available for $6 each. <a href="http://www.aftelier.com/searchresults.asp?searching=Y&sort=2&search=vanilla+smoke&show=30&page=1" target="_blank"><b>Aftelier Perfumes</b><i>: Vanilla Smoke</i></a>.</blockquote>
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<span style="font-size: 12.8px;">Photo Credits</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 12.8px;"><i>Vanilla Smoke</i> perfume photo representation: Esmerelda Seay-Reynolds, Vogue Germany; </span><span style="font-size: 12.8px;">Photo: Mario Testino</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>Vanilla Smoke </i>perfume photo representation: </span><span style="font-size: 12.8px; text-align: center;">Emma Karlsson,Vogue Australia; </span><span style="font-size: 12.8px; text-align: center;">Photographer: unknown</span><br />
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<br />jensunhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00041130248100842593noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2543727401374792804.post-13795251670554824002015-11-20T08:35:00.000-08:002015-11-20T08:36:17.595-08:00Meet Miss Hummingbird, Zoologist's newest edp<div>
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<i>Hummingbird </i>Eau de Parfum is the latest offering from one of my most favorite houses, <b>Zoologist Perfumes</b>. </div>
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It's a departure from the heavy footfalls of <i>Rhinoceros </i>and <a href="http://thisblogreallystinksperfume.blogspot.com/2015/02/zoologist-beaver-clean-and-skanky.html" target="_blank">the rutting skank of <i>Beaver</i></a>. It's closer in tone to <a href="http://thisblogreallystinksperfume.blogspot.com/2015/02/zoologist-panda-perfume-review-that.html" target="_blank">the light, transcendent <i>Panda</i> </a>- but not in the same genre of scent. </div>
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<i>Hummingbird </i>is a flirtatious, fun, flickering thing. A "fruity floral," I'm hesitant to say, as I know that name makes some people wander off, but please don't!<br />
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Our fun-filled <i>Hummingbird </i>is a delight to wear and nothing like those department store confections. So please, let me describe her.<br />
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As first we meet, she is darting about, making preparations. We catch pungent whiffs of juicy pear, a sumptuous rose, sweet and innocent violet, some chilled citrus juice, and a hint of a lilac breeze. Miss <i>Hummingbird </i>likes things sweet but realizes <u>we</u> may not want to go overboard, so she shows delightful restraint. The perfect hostess. </div>
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When next she flys by, shimmering in the sun, she presents us with a brilliant, glimmering bouquet. Again, always considerate, nothing dominates heavily. Everything is effervescent, sparkling, and incandescent like the lady herself. We smell, at times, lilac & peony & ylang ylang & honeysuckle & mimosa. Sometimes we smell them all, like a brilliant flash of colors - daresay like Miss <i>Hummingbird </i>herself?</div>
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Miss <i>Hummingbird</i>, tired from flitting about, settles down gently into a creamy musk-laden woods. One is almost surprised to see her resting this softly, but always the genteel lady, her repose is as gorgeous as the rest of her.</div>
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<i>Hummingbird </i>Eau de Parfum was created by perfumer <b>Shelley Waddington , </b>of En Voyage Perfumes, for the brief created by <b>Victor Wong</b>, designer of <b>Zoologist Perfumes</b>. </div>
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Family: fruity-floral; Projection: good/strong; Length-of-wear: 6 hours+; This is a gorgeous floral blend with a sparkling fruity top and creamy woods bottom. Full bottle worthy and perhaps my second favorite in the line. At $125 the pricepoint is reasonable for niche perfume, and the bottles and labels are divine. </blockquote>
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<a href="http://www.zoologistperfumes.com/" target="_blank"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Zoologist Perfumes</span></b></a></div>
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Disclosure: Sample provided by Victor Wong</div>
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jensunhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00041130248100842593noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2543727401374792804.post-72248059447596377012015-11-08T11:57:00.000-08:002015-11-08T12:08:27.222-08:00Radiant skin from Aftelier and Aroma M<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TWbyQlWPwx0/Vj-kKoGzObI/AAAAAAAAM0w/vT06agXtYfk/s1600/donyale.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TWbyQlWPwx0/Vj-kKoGzObI/AAAAAAAAM0w/vT06agXtYfk/s320/donyale.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Do you hate your skin? If so, scurry along. I'll wait. Bye.<br />
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Ok, now that the riff raff is gone, the rest of us can discuss keeping our skin its radiant best.<br />
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Enter: <b>Aftelier</b> and <b>Aroma M</b>.<br />
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But wait, Jen! Those are PERFUME companies. Have you gone mental?! </div>
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I have, but that's irrelevant. And rude that you brought it up, frankly. </div>
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<i>Yes</i>, those are perfume companies, but focus, people. I know what I'm talking about. I'm a professional. No, really: I am. I'm a professional makeup artist. </div>
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And my main artist philosophy is "if you have terrible skin, your makeup will look awful."</div>
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You heard me. No makeup artist can fix bad skin on set. Only Photoshop can do that.</div>
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So...<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-u2IzndHZv3E/Vj-kWgtQUyI/AAAAAAAAM04/_F-Bnvmpg_s/s1600/large.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-u2IzndHZv3E/Vj-kWgtQUyI/AAAAAAAAM04/_F-Bnvmpg_s/s320/large.jpg" width="222" /></a></div>
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Meet skincare oils. Yes: OILS.</div>
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Stop making me repeat myself. Geesh.</div>
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Your skin has oils anyway, so if you add the right oils into your routine, your skin will thank you by glowing in that way it hasn't since you were a child. </div>
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Radiance, not shine. </div>
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Oils were the original skincare. Put away the chemicals and get back to basics, ya'll. Here's how...<br />
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<b><u>CLEANSING</u>:</b></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-A7NiWNjLzFE/Vj-nH300UoI/AAAAAAAAM1M/ax4Es-1nANA/s1600/Single_Bottle.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-A7NiWNjLzFE/Vj-nH300UoI/AAAAAAAAM1M/ax4Es-1nANA/s200/Single_Bottle.jpg" width="109" /></a></div>
<b>Aroma M</b>, by the lovely <i>Maria McElroy</i>, has you covered, with the <b>Cleansing Oil</b> addition to her breathtaking <b><i>Camellia Oil</i></b> collection. It's rich in antioxidants and super nourishing, but rinses off and leaves just a hint of dewiness. </div>
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Use this to whisk off makeup easily, as it deftly dissolves even stubborn pigments and nasty bacteria, so you don't have to obsess about all the yuck on there and you can believe your skin has always been as clean as the day you were born. It leaves your skin simply soft, impeccable, and looking radiant, like you've scrubbed it with angels wings. It also stays nice and hydrated for hours, soft as a baby's tushie.</div>
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Or once a week let it sink into the skin during a 3-4 minute massage (face/neck/décolletage). Thank me later. </div>
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Ingredients: <span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"> beneficial fatty acids like Organic Camellia Seed Oil, Organic Rice Bran Oil, Organic Golden Jojoba Oil, Organic Vitamin E, Organic Essential Oils of Neroli, Yuzu, Rosemary and Frankincense. <i>It smells heavenly.</i></span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Suitable for all skintypes. <b><i>Really</i></b>. <u>Even you boys.</u></span></div>
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See also: Camellia Body/Bath Oil*; Camellia Perfume*; Camellia Hair Oil*; Camellia Face Oil* all available at <a href="http://www.aromam.com/camellia.html" target="_blank">Aroma M</a>.</div>
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<b>Geisha approved.</b></div>
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*This Blog Really Stinks owned and approved</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">jasmine</td></tr>
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<b><u>MOISTURIZING</u>:</b></div>
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<b>Aftelier</b>, by goddess <i>Mandy Aftel</i>, creates skincare divinity: <i><b>Organic Face Elixirs</b></i>. Today's offering is her newest, <b><i>Jasmine</i></b>. </div>
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Here's the thing. I love to hydrate with oils. Especially Mandy's. </div>
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Organic Jasmine Face Elixir is SO good it's like inhaling the Garden of Eden and all of the goodness and sin that comes with it. Only, this time the gods and goddess approve, and so does your skin. And there's no snake or apple.</div>
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Wait. This is getting confusing.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI-5wEI7_mE9gnD2hTWSmEFZh9bcjGGUrHwRBACVWmxHoHRnd_K7F9JjOXr3FG0LKSKdfpwMv2WOIQONB4NGN1R2yqJWZS3ykWqsfNng-PezmIZKEXGib-WbXm2Q-3Z_xyNHay5t1LHcQx/s1600/FACE-ELIXIR-Jasmine-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI-5wEI7_mE9gnD2hTWSmEFZh9bcjGGUrHwRBACVWmxHoHRnd_K7F9JjOXr3FG0LKSKdfpwMv2WOIQONB4NGN1R2yqJWZS3ykWqsfNng-PezmIZKEXGib-WbXm2Q-3Z_xyNHay5t1LHcQx/s200/FACE-ELIXIR-Jasmine-2.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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Just put a few drops of this elixir (oil) on your fingertips and press it into your skin after cleansing, then let it soak in. You'll swear unicorns blessed you with their magic. You'll radiate glowy youth and vigor without a hint of oiliness. Scout's honor. </div>
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And it smells slightly spicy and jamine-y (literary license says I can make up that word). If you put this on at night, you'll fall asleep to lovely dreams and awaken looking like a model*. I also wear it during the day, but you may not want to if you wear face makeup - it may be a tad too hydrating. </div>
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Ingredients: jasmine sambac, harvested in India, in a base of <span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">organic oils - rice bran, sweet almond, apricot kernel, camellia, grapeseed, squalene, and rose hip seed. Some oily skins or combo skins in the oily areas may find this a bit too rich - so try a sample first. </span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">See also: Organic Honeysuckle Face Elixir**; Organic Rose Face Elixir; Ancient Resins Body and Hair Elixir**; Chocolate & Saffron Body and Hair Elixir; Patchouli Spice Body and Hair Elixir; Pear, Fir, and Coffee Body and Hair Elixir. </span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">All available at <a href="http://www.aftelier.com/Jasmine-Face-Elixir-p/face-elixir-jasmine.htm" target="_blank">Aftelier</a>. </span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">*This may not be a real thing. But your skin will be lovely, I promise. </span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">**This Blog Really Stinks owned and approved</span></div>
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Disclosure: samples provided by the perfumers/manufacturers, with thanks.</div>
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jensunhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00041130248100842593noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2543727401374792804.post-21443503462505525482015-11-01T10:30:00.000-08:002015-11-01T10:31:44.719-08:00Euphorium Brooklyn has the answer for dark mysterious perfume: Pétales <div>
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<a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-WZKgFUFp3io/VjZUmhVBl8I/AAAAAAAAMzc/Gcth0G8JyOI/s640/blogger-image--1563030648.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-WZKgFUFp3io/VjZUmhVBl8I/AAAAAAAAMzc/Gcth0G8JyOI/s400/blogger-image--1563030648.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Do you remember back when edgy, dark, shadowy makeup artistry line <b>Illamasqua </b>released their fragrance, <i>Freak</i>? The one in the dark tilted bottle with the snail on the side? </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Illamasqua </b><i>Freak</i><br />
Freakily disappointing </td></tr>
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That's about as dark as we got there. To say I was disappointed was a huge understatement. Nice perfume, but not worthy of the <b>Illamasqua </b>reputation. </div>
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I envisioned something haunting, yet pretty. Something a little dangerous, but seductive. It was good but I wanted more. More darkness. More edge. More mystery. More staggering beauty. More... MORE. </div>
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I found it.</div>
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<b>Euphorium Brooklyn</b>'s <i>Pétales </i>fits the bill in spades. </div>
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I swear it starts with an innocent olfactory feint that smells like, I know I'm nuts, but--- well, I get rootbeer for a second. The fizz of grapefruit and florals must be to blame, as they mix with the spicy sweetness of star anise and pepper, the bite of galbanum, and the smoothness of honey. </div>
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But that's just a little game, because this flirtatious scent turns quickly into a much more mature scent.</div>
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Spray <i>Pétales </i>to wrap yourself in a slightly mysterious perfume with naughty indoles, an armful of blossoms, and a deeply sexy base. Then watch out! </div>
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<a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-jcfVYtQpJKg/VjZUoPQxFeI/AAAAAAAAMzk/ZiB9rEgigh4/s640/blogger-image-1055245293.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-jcfVYtQpJKg/VjZUoPQxFeI/AAAAAAAAMzk/ZiB9rEgigh4/s640/blogger-image-1055245293.jpg" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://euphoriumbrooklyn.com/?page_id=668" target="_blank"><i>Pétales </i>, <b>Brooklyn Euphorium</b></a>. Available at <a href="http://twistedlily.com/shop/eau-de-parfum/petales/" target="_blank">TwistedLily.com</a></blockquote>
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Family: Floriental. Firmly unisex. Projection is moderate, though you could amp this mother with extra sprays - if you dare. Length of wear is "hours and hours." Cost is in the moderately-expensive range, but snatch up a sample for only $4 and see if you agree: it's worth it. I smell rose and lily and crisp greens snapping over sparkling citrus. A river of honeyed spice flows beneath, before ending in a musky animalic heaves.</blockquote>
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Notes: Rose, Lavender, Orchid, Hyacinth, Linden Blossom, Lily, Iris, Orange Blossom, Violet, Orris, Jasmine, Geranium, Palmarosa, Pettigrain sur la Fleurs, Galbanum, Green Stem, Moss, Pink Grapefruit, Fig, Honey, Star Anise, Elemi, Black Pepper, Vetiver, Labdanum, Benzoin, Tolu Balsam, Ambergris, Indole, Tonka Musk </blockquote>
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jensunhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00041130248100842593noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2543727401374792804.post-43515101089353278142015-10-30T08:13:00.001-07:002015-10-30T08:41:59.038-07:00Musc Ravageur, by Maurice Roucel for Frederic Malle - a misnomer?<div>
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I'm slipping quietly back into the scented writing world with a review of a fan favorite, "new classic," <i>Musc Ravageur</i>. Because go big or go home, right?</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The perfumer, Maurice Roucel<br />
I love this shot. </td></tr>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">I rarely quote PR material in my reviews. It's flowery enough, usually, and oddly enough has nothing to do with the crucial question: "But Jen, how does it smell?"</span><br />
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">However, this entire review pivots around my own question: Is this scent correctly named?</span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">So rather than use my brain to come up with a new review concept, which seems like a hassle, I'll stick to my guns and quote the <b><a href="http://www.fredericmalle.com/perfumes/musc-ravageur">Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle</a> </b>copy for ya:</span></div>
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<i><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">Launched in 2000, this composition was a turning point in the history of </span>amber <span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">orientals. A sensual perfume, powerful yet perfectly controlled, dramatic and mysterious. Composed by Maurice Roucel as an “act of seduction and generosity”, Musc Ravageur is an uncompromising Oriental, which runs against current fads. Its explosive departure of bergamot, tangerine and cinnamon is set against a backdrop of vanilla, </span>musk<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"> and </span>amber<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">. A sexy, turbulent perfume, in a word: ravageur.</span></i></blockquote>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">Another quote, which is particularly lazy writing: </span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><b style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; text-indent: -1em;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"><span direction="" id="ID0EQ" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px;">ravageur</span></span></b></span></h2>
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><b style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; text-indent: -1em;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"><span direction="" id="ID0EW" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px;">, euse<span class="nbsp1" style="height: 12px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px 0px 0px 2px; width: 2px;"> </span></span></span></b></span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; text-indent: -1em;"><span direction="" id="ID0E6" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"><span class="nbsp1" style="height: 12px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px 0px 0px 2px; width: 2px;"> </span></span></span><span class="nbsp1" style="height: 12px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px 0px 0px 4px; text-indent: -1em; width: 4px;"> </span><b style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; text-indent: -1em;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"><span direction="" id="ID0EIB" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px;">adj<span class="nbsp1" style="height: 12px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px 0px 0px 6px; width: 6px;"> </span></span></span></b><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; text-indent: -1em;"><span direction="" id="ID0EAE" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"><span class="nbsp1" style="height: 12px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px 0px 0px 6px; width: 6px;"> </span></span></span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; text-indent: -1em;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"><span direction="targettarget" id="ID0EME" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px;">devastating<span class="nbsp1" style="font-weight: bold; height: 12px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px 0px 0px 2px; width: 2px;"> </span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue Light, HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">I don't speak French, but by my assessment -and astute leaps of intellect- this perfume is supposed to be a "devastating musk." </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue Light, HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">The skeptic in me wants to know, is it <i>really</i>? Devastating is a pretty tall order. You'd better knock me to my damn knees weeping if you're using that word, know what I'm saying?</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue Light, HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Let's talk about those notes. Bergamot? Check. Tangerine? Crisp and juicy. Cinnamon? Just a dash. Not really an explosive departure, but again I'm not falling for that PR crap. Also present but curiously missing from the description is lavender. Trust me, it's there. </span></span></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9eYfcVSIS94/VjOGp6EZjqI/AAAAAAAAMy8/9r6w89jqg6E/s1600/923278fef227ac2744629a2b6a8c756e.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9eYfcVSIS94/VjOGp6EZjqI/AAAAAAAAMy8/9r6w89jqg6E/s1600/923278fef227ac2744629a2b6a8c756e.jpg" /></a><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue Light, HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Carrying on: vanilla, musk, and amber? Check, check, check, but don't expect VANILLA, all up in yer face. Nope. Think whispers and hints.</span></span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"> No mention of the clove, but it's there, too, as is </span>tonka<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">. There are woods in the base as well, including some sandalwood. Soft woods. Hazy. Soft and hazy amber woods.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue Light, HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">The musk (ahem, "musc") is also soft. Not in volume, but in its nature. It's not pulling, tugging, and growling. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue Light, HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Rather, it purrs. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue Light, HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">If this perfume is about sex, it's the aftermath of comfortable but delicious sex with a familiar lover, lying together afterwards reading or, limbs entangled, hitting Netflix. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue Light, HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">If you want steamy carnal knowledge, I suggest you look elsewhere.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">In other words, "Musc Ravageur" is a misnomer, but probably sells better than "Musc Lazy Cuddles*."</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue Light, HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Think: <i>Amber Oud</i>. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue Light, HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Therefore: I loved it at first sniff. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue Light, HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Result: Full Bottle Worthy. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue Light, HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Family: Oriental. Firmly unisex. Projection is minimal, this <i>is</i> a skinscent; length of wear is long for me. I get top notes and base at the same time, with the basenotes developing, getting foggier and softer over time. Cost is in the expensive range, but worth every scent. As with all musk-heavy perfumes, your mileage may vary: we all perceive them differently. Many people find this "screechy" or "too animalic." They're wrong. </span></span></blockquote>
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<b><i><span style="color: #e69138;">What's your favorite cuddly scent? Do you have a particularly CARNAL scent you adore?</span></i></b><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue Light, HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><i>*I also refer to it as "fluffy kitten bellies" because it's just that cozy-furry-cuddly. </i></span></span></div>
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jensunhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00041130248100842593noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2543727401374792804.post-9283395829426809492015-03-03T07:08:00.001-08:002015-03-03T07:14:44.198-08:00DabneyRose Moi-Koh Incense Body Powders<div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-QzdnXUBZPew/VPXOJWDubyI/AAAAAAAAMs4/eXE9K1lna-Y/s640/blogger-image--1255627315.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-QzdnXUBZPew/VPXOJWDubyI/AAAAAAAAMs4/eXE9K1lna-Y/s640/blogger-image--1255627315.jpg"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">I've been saving something special for today, because it's my birthday. I wanna talk about a treat!!! </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Let's talk about something truly decadent and novel. New - but not. Something I imagine you have not ever tried before, but you're gonna wanna!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Body powder incense.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">What?! <i>Oh yeah</i>. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Dry, scented powders? Been there, done that. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-RVpe2izfvpM/VPXOLer80xI/AAAAAAAAMtA/4U9ph9rmnXc/s640/blogger-image--2127558155.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-RVpe2izfvpM/VPXOLer80xI/AAAAAAAAMtA/4U9ph9rmnXc/s640/blogger-image--2127558155.jpg"></a></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Incense-style, though? A ritualized body treatment using the ancient art of incense to bring the body and soul together with the powers above? I am willing to bet that's a new one for you.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-nle2wiBmLfk/VPXOcj3R1AI/AAAAAAAAMtQ/mIHCduA0QDE/s640/blogger-image--1257800057.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-nle2wiBmLfk/VPXOcj3R1AI/AAAAAAAAMtQ/mIHCduA0QDE/s640/blogger-image--1257800057.jpg"></a></div><br></div>Imagine starting the day inhaling the beautiful scent of sandalwood, rose petals, a touch of frankincense and orris, and either tuberose extrait or ginger lily extrait and ginger lily root. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Rub it in your hands. Breathe it in. Rub it on your body. In your hair. On your bed sheets. On your clothes. Anywhere you wish. If some fall on the floor, no worries - the scent is lovely and you'll vaccum or sweep it up soon.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><b>Dabney Rose</b>, who makes the <i>Moi-Koh Incense Powders</i>, also says they burn beautifully on an incense heater set on low, but I have not tried that. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-oHuitkbMNfw/VPXOawE2qkI/AAAAAAAAMtI/lXce9WIQ2yk/s640/blogger-image--1703821363.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-oHuitkbMNfw/VPXOawE2qkI/AAAAAAAAMtI/lXce9WIQ2yk/s640/blogger-image--1703821363.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">I got to sample both powders, and took my time experimenting. I found both really pleasing, though preferred the tuberose by a nose. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">I personally like putting them in my hair or on my body when it's the slightest bit damp. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><i>Moi-Koh Gingibar </i>takes a moment to bloom, then gives a subtle burst of ginger and then a longer waft of ginger lily and soft woods.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh1kBAmF9PmN99ym0IC2xqK9Iphkeqr4uq6H10f-yYyGtgzhfREkuk3xGDGdTHsuf04ixllYtsCrsUwyeElJWqoZJb3Kgl1OmA5t7gQC-VX1M4dXPyoOEQ-bhcN_FSQwQOjSlZxjlQkAb3/s640/blogger-image-650063011.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh1kBAmF9PmN99ym0IC2xqK9Iphkeqr4uq6H10f-yYyGtgzhfREkuk3xGDGdTHsuf04ixllYtsCrsUwyeElJWqoZJb3Kgl1OmA5t7gQC-VX1M4dXPyoOEQ-bhcN_FSQwQOjSlZxjlQkAb3/s640/blogger-image-650063011.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><i>Moi-Koh Tuberose</i> is pretty straight-forward tuberose from the gate, fading into those soft woods. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Neither has particular longevity, but they really aren't meant to. They do, especially in my long hair, every now and then toss out a little scent. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">These powders are a beautiful ritual I have come to enjoy. Decedant. Very zen. Very posh. A blending of a French (Moi) beauty treatment and an ancient tradition (Koh, borrowed from Zu-Koh, the Japanese term for using incense before praying or entering the temples). </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Shop for<b> Moi-Koh Incense Body Powders</b> and Dabney's other beautiful natural scented products (I love her hydrosols!) on Etsy: <a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/DabneyRose" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">https://www.etsy.com/shop/DabneyRose</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Disclosure: samples provided by perfumer</div>jensunhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00041130248100842593noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2543727401374792804.post-68306825099928352282015-02-18T12:37:00.001-08:002015-02-18T12:37:41.218-08:00Zoologist: Beaver - Clean and skanky<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sq6EPCcE8kg/VOTKSCpiF-I/AAAAAAAAMrI/Wg49v_Q2_5c/s1600/IMG_1043.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><br /></a>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"><i><br />A river pools in the clearing of a peaceful wood. Wild flowers mingle in the undergrowth. This is where the beavers build their kingdom. </i></span></blockquote>
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Perfumistas often find themselves divided over the topic of "skank." That dirty, gritty, animalic aspect of some perfume that some find disgusting while others feel is sexy.<br /><br />Perfume notes that add "skank" are usually musks: civet (from a catlike creature of the same name), deer musk, and castoreum (from beavers). Musks are removed from the glands near the anus of the animal and, as one can imagine, this does not leave the animal intact after the procedure. Considering this procedure and its impact on the animal, modern musks are usually synthetics or not sourced from these creatures. Then there's ambergris, expelled from the sperm whale, like vomit but not. Since ambergris is not harmful to the sperm whale, it is not a no-no from the animal-cruelty standpoint - but it's super rare (and super expensive!). Luckily, perfumers have been experimenting with dried hyrax poo ("African stone"); choya nak, which is made from roasted sea shells; cumin; costus; and cassie - all to create the skank we like without the animal cruelty (and without the synthetics, for the natural perfumers purists out there). <br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Happy beaver butt.</td></tr>
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<br /><br />In <b><a href="http://www.zoologistperfumes.com/products/beaver">Zoologist</a></b>'s beautiful<i> <b>Beaver edp</b></i>, one will find a healthy dose of what smells like castoreum. Fear not! No beaver butts were harmed in the making of these perfumes. <b>Zoologist</b> founder <b>Victor Wong</b> challenged perfumer <b>Chris Bartlett</b> (of <a href="http://www.pellwall-perfumes.com/">Pell Wall Perfumes</a>) to create this animalic tribute to Canada's favorite little hard worker without using a single animal product. After all, a tribute is not a suitable tribute if it harms the honoree.<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
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<br /><br />There's been a lot of buzz about this scent in Perfume-o-Sphere, but not a ton of reviews. Is that because we're all fifth graders and can't hear the word "beaver" without turning stupid? I literally saw someone post, "I won't try it because of the name." Oh grow up. You're missing out.<br /><br /><i>Beaver </i>opens with a breath of the lightest citrus, a simple-sweet linden swirl, and the feeling of an expanse of beautiful clean air. And as my skin always brings the heavier notes forward early, yes, I get the castoreum already. <br /><br />As the perfume progresses - and this is an edp that wears strong, 6-8 hours at least - the musky leather scent builds a bit, always trailing the most beautiful light musky floral notes...<br /><br />There's a whisper of vanilla and smoke that adds to the feint of leather in the heart of the scent. Not enough to take us into handbag territory, but enough to keep us from tripping into a pile of steaming skank. Hours later, the scent fades gently into softer progressions of musks over woods.<br /><br />I find the perfume fairly linear in concept with enough subtle nuanced lifts tossed in here and there to keep it from being boring. As a lover of skank, I'd call this one "skank lite", and recommend it to anyone who enjoys leather scents and may be interested in branching out into more animalic scents. <br /><br /><blockquote class="tr_bq">
<i>*Note: as with all musk-based scents a warning must be made. Since musk scent molecules are perceived differently by each nose, what I find not-too-skanky may smell like a barnyard to you, and what you think smells like a skunk may smell as clean as soap to me. </i></blockquote>
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<i>Beaver</i> is like a remade classic scent. A modern vintage. It has the lovely, earthy skank of an older perfume (that castoreum is <i>really</i> an accord and not a little dose of the real deal?!), with a modern and light hand shaping the notes around it. <br /><br />And can we talk about the packaging and bottle presentation? GoodNESS those are gorgeous.<br /><br />Once again, the <b><a href="http://www.zoologistperfumes.com/">Zoologist Perfumes</a></b> house gets an A++ and a "must buy" rating from me, and I don't "do" ratings...<div>
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<a href="http://www.zoologistperfumes.com/products/beaver"> <b><i>Beaver</i> edp by Zoologist Perfumes $125</b></a> </blockquote>
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Top Notes: linden-blossom, Fresh Air, Musk, Light-citrus </blockquote>
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Heart Notes: Castoreum*, Iris, Vanilla, Smoke, Undergrowth </blockquote>
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Base Notes: Animal Musks*, Ash, Cedar, Amber</blockquote>
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: Raleway; font-size: 12px; letter-spacing: 1px; line-height: 19.2000007629395px;">*Synthetic notes. Beaver Eau de Parfum does not use animal products.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><br /> Disclosure: samples are my own<br /><br />Image Credits: happy as shit beaver, pinterest.com (edited); beaver dam, theamericaninparis; swimming beaver, ign.com; cute begging beaver, docakilah.wordpress.com; all others either zoologist.com or my own</span></div>
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For those of you who haven't heard about <a href="http://www.zoologistperfumes.com/"><b>Zoologist Perfumes</b></a>, it is a Toronto-based line founded by <b>Victor Wong</b> in 2013. It has made quite an impact in the perfumista world, and I'm hoping they start making a wider swath on the market soon. I hadn't yet tried them, and am working my way through the three scents in their collection: <i>Panda</i>, <i>Rhinoceros</i>, and <i>Beaver</i>. All three are soundly unisex, and all three are made with absolutely no animal products, which is sensible for a line that is paying tribute to the animal kingdom, wouldn't you say?</div>
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I have an interview with Victor coming up, but first I'll review all three scents individually, mmkay?<br>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dude is CHILLIN'. And perhaps lacks dignity.</td></tr>
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I picked <i>Panda </i>to review first not just because HELLO, PANDA PICTURES! but also because it's the most difficult one for me to review. I'm weird like that. I like to get the hard stuff out of the way.<br>
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This is not to say that <i>Panda </i>is a difficult to wear scent. It is not.<br>
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<i>Panda </i>is, in fact, a delight to wear.<br>
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It's a little like this:<br>
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It makes me happy. </div>
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<i><a href="http://www.zoologistperfumes.com/collections/perfumes/products/panda">Panda</a></i> was orchestrated by Victor in conjunction with perfumer <b>Paul Kiler</b> (of <a href="http://pkperfumes.com/">PK Perfumes</a>).<br>
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The perfume is quite obviously a tribute to the panda bear, but not meant to smell like one. Which, I must say, is probably good. I mean... they're cute and all, but I imagine they smell kinda musty and dirty and not at all like something I feel like spraying on my body.<br>
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The scent -which is an edp in strength but wears like a pure perfume, mind you- is billed more as a walk in the bamboo woods that would be the panda's environment.<br>
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<i>The adorable Panda is a born charmer and a true ambassador of peace. Indigenous to the Sichuan bamboo forests, the Panda’s natural habitat is a majestic mosaic of dewy greens and enchanting aromas. </i></blockquote>
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<i>Panda Eau de Parfum is a fresh green fragrance that combines the delightful scents of bamboo and zisu leaves to send you on an unforgettable aromatic adventure. Your journey begins at a quaint Sichuan pepper farm surrounded by mountain streams and then leads you through a forest of osmanthus flowers as you finally make your way into a cozy garden filled with juicy mandarin trees and blooming lilies. Panda is a scent ensemble that will truly awaken and rejuvenate your senses.</i></blockquote>
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Let's start off the review with: this is a green fragrance.<span style="font-size: large;"><b> <span style="color: #6aa84f;">Big green.</span></b></span> I happen to like green fragrances. If you don't, I still think you should try <i>Panda</i>. It's not your typical green fragrance. I don't know that I've ever tried anything quite like it before...</div>
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The opening is bright and light, courtesy of not just any lemon/citron but apparently Buddha's hand citron...<br>
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... and green tea, zisu leaves, and magical, lovely mandarin, a favorite of mine.<br>
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Apparently zisu is in the mint family, but there's no overbearing mint smell to this scent or I would have scrubbed it off. I can only assume this note is present to provide lift and brightness. <br>
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Also at the top of the scent is, apparently, bamboo, which I do not know as a smell, and Sichuan Pepper, which for the life of me I cannot smell. I must be anosmic?</div>
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The top notes are clear like a bell, definitely strong but not overbearing. They're beautiful. This is the playful, fun part of the scent, in my personal opinion. Then things start to get a little more serene.<br>
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Have you ever had blooming tea/flowering tea/pearl tea? It seems to go by many names. I'm not a big tea drinker, but I have had, in the past, wonderful jasmine tea pearls -- rolled-up tea that unfurled in the hot water. It's just a beautiful, hypnotic process, a meditation in my mug. <br>
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This, to me, is how the middle notes of <i>Panda </i>develop. The top notes don't die or fade and suddenly you're in the middle of the perfume. No, the top notes are the water and the heart of the scent unfurls...<br>
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As with so many many perfumes, the heart of <i>Panda </i>is floral, here with added incense. I, personally, do not really pick up the incense. I get lingering green-ness from the opening. Added to that is delightful osmanthus, lending a tea-like impression. This is not a heavy tea note. No, it's beautiful osmanthus flower with it's dash of citrus, and maybe a hint of leather, pulling those top notes along for the ride.There's orange blossom, too, but lightly. A breeze. The lillies, too. You're walking by a field with flowers, not sticking your face in a bouquet.</div>
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This part of the scent is still bright and sunny. It's clean, but not soapy. It's green, but not leafy or grassy. It's a spa day, and you're relaxed. You're feeling calm. You're feeling open and, well, zen.<br>
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Eventually, and this takes quite awhile because <i>Panda </i>has some massive longevity, you find that your walk is ending and you're in the basenotes.<br>
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The vetiver and, I assume, "damp moss," continue our green theme, while cedar and sandalwood transition us into a fairly typical -and still quite "zen"- base.<br>
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I had to Google Pemou Root, and it seems that's a cedar-like oil with some benzoin and maybe some blood orange tinges, so hey there tricksy Paul Kiler - I see what you're doing there!<br>
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There is a linear quality to the scent, but it's not a linear scent. That is to say, it tells a story that is cohesive. It has continuity, but by no means is this perfume boring or "one note." It stays bright and clear without ever becoming annoying, shrill, or sharp. And it's definitely one I keep re-sniffing while wearing.<br>
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By the way, I can still smell <i>Panda </i>more than 12 hours after applying (at that point it's mostly soft musky woods). For a "fresh green edp" that's, frankly, astounding to me.<br>
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I do not grade scents, but if I were to do so <i>Panda </i>would get an A++. I plan on putting it on my must-buy list because there is nothing at all like it in my perfume collection. I think it's quite brilliant.<br>
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<strong style="box-sizing: border-box; font-family: HelveticaNeue-Light, 'Helvetica Neue Light', 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, 'Lucida Grande', sans-serif; font-size: 12px; letter-spacing: 1px; line-height: 19.2000007629395px;">Top Notes:</strong><span style="background-color: white; font-family: HelveticaNeue-Light, 'Helvetica Neue Light', 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, 'Lucida Grande', sans-serif; font-size: 12px; letter-spacing: 1px; line-height: 19.2000007629395px;"> Buddha's Hand Citron, Bamboo, Sichuan Pepper, Green Tea, Mandarin, Zisu Leaves</span><br>
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<strong style="box-sizing: border-box;">Heart Notes:</strong> Osmanthus, Orange Blossom, Lillies, Mimosa, Incense</div>
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<strong style="box-sizing: border-box;">Bottom Notes:</strong> Sandalwood, Pemou Root, Cedar, Fresh Musk*, Bourbon, Haitian Vetiver, Damp Moss</div>
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*Synthetic notes. Panda Eau de Parfum does not use animal products.</div>
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<b><i>Panda</i></b><br>
Available only at <b><a href="http://www.zoologistperfumes.com/collections/perfumes/products/panda">Zoologist Perfumes</a><br>$125</b></div>
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<a href="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-91J2darqwa4/VM-G1IXmtwI/AAAAAAAAMpg/gCkNx7hsnws/s640/blogger-image-1826508359.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: start;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-91J2darqwa4/VM-G1IXmtwI/AAAAAAAAMpg/gCkNx7hsnws/s200/blogger-image-1826508359.jpg" width="180"></a><img border="0" height="200" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-MwBh1PE0Jog/VM-Gn-V7iKI/AAAAAAAAMog/-WyTUeQCOx0/s200/blogger-image-1151558270.jpg" style="text-align: center;" width="147"><span style="text-align: center;"> <span style="font-size: xx-small;"> </span></span><span style="font-size: xx-small; text-align: start;">Disclosure: samples are my own </span><br>
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<span style="font-size: xx-small; text-align: start;">Photo credits: no dignity panda, bbc.com; tumble panda, cutearoo.com; bamboo, greenlifestylemarket.com; Buddha's Hand, wikicommons; zen spa, peaceriverzenspa.com; sleeping zen panda, theguardian.com; hugging pandas, telegraph.co.uk; bamboo flute panadas, filmcrithulk.wordpress.com; samples, my own.</span><br>
<a href="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-91J2darqwa4/VM-G1IXmtwI/AAAAAAAAMpg/gCkNx7hsnws/s640/blogger-image-1826508359.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><br></a><a href="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-91J2darqwa4/VM-G1IXmtwI/AAAAAAAAMpg/gCkNx7hsnws/s640/blogger-image-1826508359.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><br></a>jensunhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00041130248100842593noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2543727401374792804.post-75240424453524548882015-01-29T09:58:00.000-08:002015-01-29T10:44:08.449-08:00If you have a face with skin on it, read this.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FdyM2EJMtgw/VMpnbq4MlwI/AAAAAAAAMnc/Ntwbg0XN1F8/s1600/IMG_0073.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FdyM2EJMtgw/VMpnbq4MlwI/AAAAAAAAMnc/Ntwbg0XN1F8/s1600/IMG_0073.JPG" height="212" width="320"></a></div>
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As a child, did you ever climb through brambles on the way to those beautiful, bobbing heads of honeysuckle, pinch off a blossom, and suck the nectar out? I know I did! I recognized the scent of those thick, full vines way before I spotted them on one of the many pathways near our house. And I still lean over and take a whiff now, though they surely aren't as prevalent as I seem to recall them being back when I was young. </div>
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Well, if honeysuckle is a fond childhood memory for you like it is for me, AND you have a face with skin, you're going to be so excited to hear what I'm talking about today!</div>
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It's good. </div>
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Damn good.</div>
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Really mind-blowingly good.</div>
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Dance around with a smile on your face, holy grail, hug strangers good.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jYhbnPxziiM/VMpnrpiJ-dI/AAAAAAAAMno/DIiXio7KgNY/s1600/FACE-ELIXIR-Honeysuckle-2T.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jYhbnPxziiM/VMpnrpiJ-dI/AAAAAAAAMno/DIiXio7KgNY/s1600/FACE-ELIXIR-Honeysuckle-2T.jpg" height="320" width="320"></a></div>
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Natural perfumer <b>Mandy Aftel</b> has a collection of skincare products in her<a href="http://aftelier.com/"> Aftelier Perfumes</a> line. They are divine. How I have managed to not blog about them is, frankly, appalling and shameful. I could have sworn I had, and I will rectify that with haste. </div>
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At any rate, today I'm talking about a newish addition to the line. It's, of course, all kinds of natural, because this <i>is</i> Mandy Aftel we're talking about. And, unless you're particularly tired or un-coffee'd today, you have probably guessed it's got honeysuckle in it. Yup. Beautiful, rare, organic honeysuckle, sourced from Italy. </div>
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In fact the whole product, a face oil, is organic. (Score!) So: <b><i><a href="http://www.aftelier.com/Honeysuckle-Face-Elixir-p/face-elixir-honeysuckle.htm">Organic Honeysuckle Face Elixir</a></i></b> is what we have going on today. </div>
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If you have never put an oil on your face, do not stop reading. Trust me. I'm a doctor.</div>
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I am totally not a doctor. That was a blatant lie.</div>
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But I am a makeup artist. </div>
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And I have been using oils on my face for over two years, exclusively. No creams. No regular jars of moisturizers. No makeup removers, either. Just oils. And if you're shaking your head saying, "Jen, you are nuts!" Well, yes. Yes, I am, but that is not the point. </div>
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Even oily-skinned people and those with acne can -and SHOULD!- use oils on their faces. Just<i> the</i> <i>correct</i> oils. I have gone from having some visible fine lines and some acne (I'm *gulp* 43) while using an arsenal of expensive, high-end, store-bought products, to having almost imperceptible lines and barely any breakouts, even At That Time of The Month. Thank you face oils! And yes, oils are fabulous for men, too. (They give a great shave, btw)<br>
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Here's the deal. You put about two, maybe three, drops of the oil on your fingers. You spread it around a bit on all of your fingertips. You then press -do not rub!- it into freshly washed skin. Ladies, that third (or even a fourth) drop will be beneficial on your throat, neck, and decolletage. Anything left on your fingers should be pressed on the back of your hands.*</div>
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<i>*This is a rule you are to follow from now on with all skincare including sunscreen or you will have ugly old lady/old man hands. Heed my warning.</i></blockquote>
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The directions instruct you to use it at night, but as a <strike>doctor</strike> makeup artist I will say that if you have dry or even normal skin, feel free to put a little on in the morning as well. Do give it some time to sink in, though, if you indulge in makeup. It does soak into the skin quickly, but we don't want a foundation or concealer landslide issue happening. Also: caution around the eyes, please.</div>
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<b style="font-style: italic;">Organic Honeysuckle Face Elixir</b> is scented beautifully. I confess: when testing it, I put some on the back of my hands, not as an anti-aging device but as a perfume. Really, I needed to get a feel for the scent for the review.</div>
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Oh my gosh, this scent. People! THIS SCENT. </div>
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It's so ripe, lush, plump, full-bodied, rich. It's floral, it's a little fruity -but only a little. It's just... the word divine is over-used, but it fits here. </div>
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On the face, the scent seems to disappear fairly quickly, which is desirable. It is definitely enough of a lasting scent, though, that you will fall asleep to pleasant dreams if you use this at night...</div>
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I loaded it up on the backs of my hands, though, and the longevity is a little nuts, frankly. I'm about 2 1/2 hours in and I can still smell it clear as day. So if you go crazy with this on your face (Which I do not recommend because you do not need that much oil on your face. Ever.) and you apply in the morning, you're going to have some funny looks at that 9:00am meeting. And that's not what you're going for, I don't think, amiright?</div>
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So the breakdown is this: <b style="font-style: italic;">Organic Honeysuckle Face Elixir</b> has, as mentioned, rare organic honeysuckle oil sourced from Italy. It's added to the organic skincare base oils: rice bran, sweet almond, apricot kernel, camelia, grapeseed, squalene, and rose hip seed. What does all that mean? Essentially, these are light, natural oils that are easily absorbed into the skin. Many of them have antioxidant properties. Some profess to even out skintone. Rose hip is often touted to be great at lessening the appearance of wrinkles. Many of these work to soften skin. </div>
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The gist: your skin is going to feel softer. It's going to feel smoother. It may have fewer breakouts. It will have fewer dry spots. You will probably notice some plumping of fine lines. You'll glow. Not kidding.</div>
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I <i>know</i> you will enjoy the scent. And the pampering feeling. </div>
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And this stuff is organic and it's natural and it's $65 a bottle, which since you're using 2-3 drops is really a very good price. </div>
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Trust me. Oil up. </div>
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<b><span style="color: #e69138;"> </span><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: #e69138;">DOG SHAMING</span></span></b></div>
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This is Zoey. </div>
Zoey took the opportunity to steal the box holding the sample vial of <b style="font-style: italic;">Organic Honeysuckle Face Elixir</b>. She proceeded to rip said box open and ignore the other sample in the box and somehow chew the bottom (only) off of the GLASS VIAL of the <i><b>Honeysuckle Elixir </b></i>and drink (?) the face oil. <br>
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Zoey will be submitted to a) the crate of shame, b) DogShaming.com, and c) intense scrutiny to make sure she did not cause herself any damage. <br>
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Mandy has been informed that Zoey prefers the <i>Honeysuckle</i> over the other sample. ;)<div><br></div><div>Oh, in other news, the dog's breath smells lovely...<br>
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<span style="font-size: xx-small;">Disclaimers:</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: xx-small;">First photo courtesy of themagiconions.com;</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: xx-small;"> honeysuckle and bee via marathi.wunderground.com</span> </div>
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all others except the dog via wikicommons.com.</div>
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<span style="font-size: xx-small;">The dog is, regrettably, mine.<br>Sample of product provided by the perfumer.</span></div>
<br></div>jensunhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00041130248100842593noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2543727401374792804.post-75616709633299689322015-01-24T16:43:00.001-08:002015-01-24T16:46:13.173-08:00Dolcelisir Acqua di Profumo by L'Erbolario<br><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-niwp7vdyCT8/VMQ8G2NjWBI/AAAAAAAAMm0/JRQU5kp8EZs/s640/blogger-image-31968405.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-niwp7vdyCT8/VMQ8G2NjWBI/AAAAAAAAMm0/JRQU5kp8EZs/s640/blogger-image-31968405.jpg"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Nice little cheapie I got to sample thanks to a friend.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">It's like a Frapin (think liquor!) and one of those Spadero's, Doux Amour I think it was, had a baby. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">A boozy, gourmand, floral, pretty thing. Almost too sweet for me, but only almost.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">It projects decently, not screaming out, but not holding too tightly, either. The longevity is like a marathoner - it goes and goes. The drydown, arguably the best part, lasts hours.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">The orange note at the top: perfection.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">The drydown is sexy/snuggly.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Worth the money if you have an olfactory sweet tooth.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Top notes include bergamot, orange, caramel and rum. Heart is composed of jasmine, rose, immortal, lily of the valley, cinnamon, sugar cane and cocoa powder. Base features patchouli, vanilla, benzoin, tonka, amber and musk.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div></div>jensunhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00041130248100842593noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2543727401374792804.post-52859216805523897092015-01-23T05:45:00.001-08:002015-01-23T05:45:15.505-08:00Bendelirious by Etat Libre d'Orange<div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-kMfklFkf_TA/VMJQWL1iYlI/AAAAAAAAMmk/LqypNRSbLaw/s640/blogger-image--1149378120.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-kMfklFkf_TA/VMJQWL1iYlI/AAAAAAAAMmk/LqypNRSbLaw/s640/blogger-image--1149378120.jpg"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Bendelirious is one <span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">of my Top Five scents because it's just so fun. And it may be---back? It was originally created by Etat Libre d'Orange (hell, call it EldO like the rest of us!) for Henri Bendel, but then discontinued and only available at discounters. But....it's on the ELdO website and on LuckyScent now. Maybe I can stop hoarding it?</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Anyway...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">This scent is, like I said, fun. She bubbles open, then starts giggling. She's never going to scream FRUITY FLORAL, thank goodness. She's too refined for that nonsense. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">She's a lady, for the love of Pete. A lady with sexy violet and orris laid over a bed of very expensive leather. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">When the party is over, she tosses a flirtatious look over her shoulder and leaves, trailing a wake of musk and sweet tonka.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">And you can't wait to see her again.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><div class="field-label" style="margin-bottom: 5px; float: none; width: auto; display: inline; font-style: italic;">Composition: </div><div class="field-items" style="float: none; width: auto; display: inline; font-style: italic;">Grapefruit essence, Champagne accord, cherry lollipop accord, violet leaves absolu, orris absolu, orris butter, leather accord, vetiver accord, musk, tonka bean absolu...</div></span></div></div>jensunhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00041130248100842593noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2543727401374792804.post-12798078798724038242015-01-21T15:16:00.000-08:002015-01-22T06:25:26.703-08:00On Mandy Aftel's book "Fragrant: The Secret Life of Scent"<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbmI_Ibe2RGH6wZ4bBrlH4qGCXcpwUEIlChMD6VuxReyGU92S1YGlJ5VMeKv6IYCt5AMQvAEZzbYFagf_8zAFBjQ_e54QZ8EXXUOK8cpdfVG6Cjni3FmFqqFIUINv237WGKCIYHvdXrFQ6/s1600/IMG_9780.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbmI_Ibe2RGH6wZ4bBrlH4qGCXcpwUEIlChMD6VuxReyGU92S1YGlJ5VMeKv6IYCt5AMQvAEZzbYFagf_8zAFBjQ_e54QZ8EXXUOK8cpdfVG6Cjni3FmFqqFIUINv237WGKCIYHvdXrFQ6/s1600/IMG_9780.JPG" height="320" width="223"></a></div>
<span style="color: #e69138; font-size: large;"><b>Intro</b></span><br>
It's been so long since I've blogged that I've quite forgotten how! But I can't think of a better way to jump back in than to start with an offering from one of the nicest people I know, a friend and a fragrant wizard: <b>Mandy Aftel</b>. Today, though, I'm not discussing a perfume. I'm talking books, my friends.<br>
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That's right. Among Mandy's many gifts is her ability to put her thoughts to paper. Perhaps you have read her well-known primer on natural perfumery, <i>Essence and Alchemy: A Natural History of Perfume*?</i> Or her book on using essential oils in expected (and not so expected) ways: <i>Aroma: The Magic of Essential Oils in Food and Fragrance</i> (with Daniel Patterson)? Or S<i>cents and Sensibilities: Creating Solid Perfumes for Well-Being</i>? Did you know she has also written about Brian Jones, a founding member of the Rolling Stones? And about finding a therapist? Yeah, she used to be a therapist in a past life. I mean, not like a past life, woo-woo-style, rather that was her profession before she discovered her passion for natural perfumery.<br>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><br>[*Note to self: Self, why have I not reviewed that? I do own it. Must remedy.]</span></div>
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<i><span style="color: #e69138;"><b>"I create perfume, and people wear it, because beauty is a vacation from reality. It is a place --an ideal place-- that you can visit without traveling. It is restorative, and it makes you feel good. A personal adornment like wearing jewelry, it has no practical purpose whatsoever. It simply allows us to inhale bliss."</b></span></i> <span style="color: #e69138;"><b>- Mandy Aftel</b></span></blockquote>
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<b><span style="color: #e69138; font-size: large;">Why <i>Fragrant</i>?</span></b><br>
Frankly, I'm <strike>a bit of a</strike> quite a nerd, so no hobby of mine can fully be enjoyed without understanding the background of the whole thing. Luckily, in<i> Fragrant</i>, Mandy makes this not only an accessible bit of research but a very pleasurable one.<br>
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But<i> Fragrant</i> is not written for the perfumers and perfumistas of the world. I mean, feel free to read it if you are one. I encourage you to do so. No, more than that: Frankly, I'm quite confused if you don't read <i>Fragrant </i>and still call yourself a perfumista. I don't understand how you can blog about, or "speak knowledgeably" about, your passion if you do not know where the art's roots are. But anyway, I digress.<br>
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<i>Fragrant</i> is Mandy's offering to the non-obsessed. To those who, to borrow the online slang, may be noobs. The curious. The folks who wonder-- "who was the first person to rub <i>that </i>on their body? And WHY?!" It's a way to open the door and say, "Come in, explore this amazing world with us!"<br>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OoRrEK7s6tA/VMAHTTIy-8I/AAAAAAAAMl0/PXyuTPQG0rM/s1600/IMG_9795.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OoRrEK7s6tA/VMAHTTIy-8I/AAAAAAAAMl0/PXyuTPQG0rM/s1600/IMG_9795.JPG" height="255" width="320"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Love, love, love the awesome pictures that pepper the pages of <i>Fragrant</i>. </td></tr>
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At the beginning of the book, Mandy skims through her history. She tells us of various careers that led her, ultimately, to her passion: natural perfumes. She uses words like "joy" and "heady" and "mysterious" and "amazing." You feel how excited she is to share this world of hers with you, the reader, and that's what makes this book such a lovely read. And it's also, by the way, what makes Mandy such a great perfumer and a wonderful person to talk to. </div>
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You see, she knows that people have become so accustomed to being bombarded with scents that we hardly register them anymore. Our detergents, our dish soaps, shampoos, our grocery stores, our foods for heaven's sake! Everything has an artificial scent and we've become numb to this constant battering ram of olfactory warfare. </div>
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We think perhaps we just don't care about scent. But Mandy has discovered the joy of introducing - or rather, reintroducing - people to the pleasure of natural scents. And that, my friends, is why <i>Fragrant </i>was written.</div>
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<span style="color: #e69138;"><b>"<i>...they've come to believe they have no appetite for scent itself. Watching them discover authentic aromas and their sensual pleasures is profoundly thrilling, like watching a starving person feast on a delicious meal. It's these experiences of reawakening people to scent that led to this book.</i>" -Mandy Aftel</b></span></blockquote>
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<b><span style="color: #e69138; font-size: large;">The Main Characters</span></b><br>
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Mandy has taken a clever approach to introducing us to the world of scent. She's chosen five "main characters" to lead the reader through history and perfumery. Each gets a chapter. I'll happily introduce them, but let me point out that the real bonus is that <a href="http://www.aftelier.com/category-s/1825.htm">if you purchase <i>Fragrant</i> from Mandy's website, <b>Aftelier Perfumes</b>, you get this amazing <i>Companion Kit</i></a> that actually gives you samples of all five of the main characters!<br>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kxB6IUVOCcw/VL_-M64lKFI/AAAAAAAAMlI/zGFRVqUDr0s/s1600/IMG_9786.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kxB6IUVOCcw/VL_-M64lKFI/AAAAAAAAMlI/zGFRVqUDr0s/s1600/IMG_9786.JPG" height="200" width="200"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Each item in the Companion Kit</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-K80tHCVEghQ/VL_-P1DNXrI/AAAAAAAAMlo/NZLB3LUy9to/s1600/IMG_9790.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-K80tHCVEghQ/VL_-P1DNXrI/AAAAAAAAMlo/NZLB3LUy9to/s1600/IMG_9790.JPG" height="200" width="200"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Companion Kit packaging</td></tr>
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<b>In order of appearance:</b></div>
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Cinnamon</div>
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Mint</div>
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Frankincense</div>
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Ambergris</div>
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Jasmine</div>
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Full disclosure: I really do not react well to spearmint. Well, whatcha gonna do? </div>
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<span style="color: #e69138;">How cool is it to know that the cinnamon and mint oils that come in the kit can be used in food or drink? And should you choose to do so, you may wear the (already diluted) ambergris tincture and jasmine on your skin. The frankincense? Rub it between your fingers, on your skin, or layer it with the other two skin-appropriate oils and make your own perfume!</span></blockquote>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-j21-poP6iu4/VL_-PdptErI/AAAAAAAAMlg/X00l3DxQXhg/s1600/IMG_9792.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-j21-poP6iu4/VL_-PdptErI/AAAAAAAAMlg/X00l3DxQXhg/s1600/IMG_9792.JPG" height="288" width="320"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The inside of The Companion Kit</td></tr>
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<b>Cinnamon</b> is a spice, and leads us through the spice route, educating us on history, passion, some myth, and how perfumery really got its start.<br>
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<b>Mint</b> represents home and Americana. It symbolizes all things authentic, comforting, and welcoming.</div>
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<b>Frankincense</b>, as part of a tree, ties us to the earth and to the sky, being a crucial part of incense. This character leads us to the spiritual.</div>
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<b>Ambergris</b> is one of those "who in the heck saw that and decided to burn it or put it on their bodies?" items. This character, a highly animalic, very prized, quite expensive ingredient, introduces us to the concept of "other" but also ties us to our own animal side. Not familiar with the ingredient? Wait until you hear how it's "made"...</div>
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<b>Jasmine</b>. Ah, sweet, sultry jasmine. This character represents the human craving for beauty, but also artfully introduces the concept of wabi-sabi. Well, you'll see. This may have been my favorite chapter. </div>
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<span style="color: #e69138; font-size: large;">Quickly...</span></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XLLs3u02HFU/VMARufmeqXI/AAAAAAAAMmA/O7oMVvP4pas/s1600/IMG_9796.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><br></a>Other neat features of the book include recipes for perfumes, foods, drinks; gorgeous quotations and poems (Mandy, you make my heart sing with these!); delightful illustrations from old books; insights into perfumery; and so much more.</div>
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<b>For example, would you like to learn...</b></div>
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<ul>
<li>The best cure for olfactory fatigue?</li>
<li>How to think about/describe a smell?</li>
<li>How scents are captured from the thing-- the flower, the tree, the bark, the fruit?</li>
<li>Some really mouth-watering tips for using essential oils in food and drinks?</li>
<li>A pretty sexy poem about being the wife of a cinnamon peeler? </li>
<li>Where the word "grocer" originated?</li>
<li>Which surprising spice, still used everywhere, was used as currency in medieval England?</li>
<li>How many perfume ingredients had elaborate stories involving snakes "back in the day"?</li>
<li>How to discern, yourself, what raw ingredient is a top, middle, or base note?</li>
<li>Which popular herb was thought to be an effective form of birth control in Japan at one point?</li>
<li>How to make Toad Ointment? (spoiler alert: the toad does not fare well in the end)</li>
<li>Why Wrigley's Gum owes a lot to some geese?</li>
<li>Which common perfume ingredient was found in King Tut's tomb?</li>
<li>What Johns Hopkins University and the Hebrew University of Jerusalem are finding out about frankincense and why it is really, really important?</li>
<li>How incense was used as a clock?</li>
<li>Why a dog rolls in the nastiest, grossest filth it can find and then proudly trots off?</li>
<li>Why, although I love it, butyl mercaptan will never be used in perfumery?</li>
<li>What butterflies smell like?</li>
<li>Really, how many times snakes are mentioned in this book?</li>
<li>Would you try jasmine-ambergris chocolate?</li>
<li>Which perfumes would you compare with rococo architecture? Ok - only you can answer that, but the question is obliquely posed in <i>Fragrant</i>.</li>
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<b><span style="color: #e69138; font-size: large;">In Summary</span></b></div>
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I found this book a fantastic read. I not only enjoyed the history -and I'm not a history gal if it's dry, which this was not- but I really had a good time learning about how Mandy picks particular ingredients. What makes a specific cinnamon Aftelier-worthy? Fascinating.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I thought that it was quite cool to learn how modern marketing hasn't come too far from ancient times, when stories were embellished to make the ingredients seem more valuable, more exotic, and voila- more expensive! </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">And I laughed out loud when Mandy compared Pinterest to a modern cabinet of curiosities. Indeed it is! More laughs came when reading the story about the man who got an leaky package in the mail...</div>
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I have a fondness for old American stories, so the section on peddlers and old ointments and backwoods tales was right up my alley. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">And of course, digging into the gross but amazing roots of some of my favorite vintage scent ingredients (ambergris, castoreum, civet, musk) was so cool. I have my qualms about their use currently, but in my vintage perfumes I figure those ethical dilemmas have long gotten on their ships and sailed away, so this vegetarian and animal rights activist can rest easily. Kinda. </div>
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I learned a lot about perfume itself, not just the ingredients. New terms made themselves known to me. Accessory Notes. Burying, Chameleon Perfume. Cresol. Who knew? Well, Mandy Aftel did. </div>
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At any rate, this book kept my interest, and if you are intrigued with perfume I assume it will do the same for you. </div>
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Frankly, I am now inspired to mix my own gorgeous naturals. Ok, I expect them to be much less gorgeous than Mandy's, but the process is the thing. And the smelling, the diving in, the reveling in the scents... that's what I have gotten from this book. So thank you, Mandy.</div>
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PS: I'm totally making frankincense shortbread.<br>
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<b><span style="color: #e69138;"><i>"What is beauty for? The beauty of beauty is that it is not for anything-- it doesn't stand </i>for <i>something else, it doesn't have to do something, it only needs to </i>be<i>." </i>- Mandy Aftel</span></b></blockquote>
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<b><span style="color: #e69138;">Other reviews</span></b></div>
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This book has been disappointingly represented in the perfume blogosphere, but has been received well elsewhere. Here are some links to reviews and, after that, links to purchasing the book.</div>
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<li><a href="http://www.nstperfume.com/2014/10/27/fragrant-the-secret-life-of-scent-by-mandy-aftel-book-review/">Now Smell This</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.fragrantica.com/news/Scented-Snippets-New-Book-Review-Fragrant-The-Secret-Life-of-Scent-by-Mandy-Aftel-6079.html">Fragrantica</a></li>
<li><a href="http://colognoisseur.com/book-review-fragrant-the-secret-life-of-scent-by-mandy-aftel-essential-oil-reading/">Review by Mark Behnke of Colognoisseur</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.kafkaesqueblog.com/2014/12/12/holiday-gift-ideas-2014/#more-14062">Received a mini-review and mention on Kafkaesque's Holiday Gift Ideas 2014</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.handfulofsalt.com/mandy-aftel-fragrant/">Handful of Salt</a></li>
<li><a href="http://ashadedviewonfashion.com/blog/laura-albert-speaks-mandy-aftel-about-her-book-fragrant-secret-life-scent">A Shaded View on Fashion</a></li>
<li><i><a href="http://www.forbes.com/sites/sarahwu/2014/11/04/how-to-buy-your-first-natural-perfume/">Forbes</a></i></li>
<li><a href="http://www.vogue.com/slideshow/3052805/perfume-mandy-aftel-book-fragrant-secret-life-of-scent/">Vogue</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.elle.com/beauty/tips/a14853/mandy-aftel-review-interview/">Elle</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.nytimes.com/2014/12/07/books/review/fragrant-by-mandy-aftel.html?_r=0">The New York Times</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.latimes.com/fashion/la-ig-mandy-aftel-20141116-story.html">LA Times</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.sfgate.com/style/article/Secrets-of-scents-Mandy-Aftel-s-life-of-5859701.php">San Francisco Chronicle</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/mary-orlin/a-fragrant-journey-with-m_b_5996492.html">Huffington Post</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.publishersweekly.com/978-1-59463-141-2">Publisher's Weekly</a></li>
<li><a href="https://www.birchbox.com/magazine/article/Mandy-Aftel-interview-Fragrant-book">Birchbox</a></li>
</ul>
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<b><span style="color: #e69138;">Purchase</span></b></div>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.aftelier.com/category-s/1825.htm">Aftelier Perfumes (with Companion Kit)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Fragrant-The-Secret-Life-Scent/dp/1594631417">Barnes & Noble</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Fragrant-The-Secret-Life-Scent/dp/1594631417">Amazon</a></li>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Disclosure: This book and the accompanying "Companion Kit" were provided to me by the author.</span></div>
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jensunhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00041130248100842593noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2543727401374792804.post-15494558073951269592015-01-08T07:37:00.001-08:002015-01-08T07:37:04.912-08:00Returning to a computer screen near you...I'm getting the band back together! That's right, I'm relaunching <b>This Blog Really Stinks</b>. I'll be back shortly with a brand new look and style that looks startlingly like the old one, possibly with a little more sass.<div><br></div><div>First post: a review of Mandy Aftel's book <i>Fragrant</i>.</div><div><br></div><div>Please do not hold your breath, because you'll die, but I will be posting soon... </div><div><br></div><div>xo,</div><div>Jen</div><br><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-J7heD2sNBhY/VK6kHYcvtiI/AAAAAAAAMjw/3Dm4pPg2GRw/s640/blogger-image-1904016154.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-J7heD2sNBhY/VK6kHYcvtiI/AAAAAAAAMjw/3Dm4pPg2GRw/s640/blogger-image-1904016154.jpg"></a></div>jensunhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00041130248100842593noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2543727401374792804.post-62371594207322437462013-05-18T13:58:00.000-07:002013-05-18T14:03:34.856-07:00Mama mia, this Mother is good stuff! Mother by Opus Oils<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6pbuxDus0WQ/UZfl1mvKP-I/AAAAAAAALaA/_KVkk1VRqUg/s1600/Mother_resize_for_Web_FINAL.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6pbuxDus0WQ/UZfl1mvKP-I/AAAAAAAALaA/_KVkk1VRqUg/s400/Mother_resize_for_Web_FINAL.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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We know I love a sandalwood perfume, right? Doesn't everyone? I mean... it's so versatile. So breathtaking. So traditional. So incredibly classic. And recently, so very rare and expensive. The woody goodness is often nearly foody, slightly skin-like, and always silken on the skin. A good long sniff of a good sandalwood is particularly soothing, don't you think?<br />
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I also adore the scrumptious, fleshy temptation of a well-made fig perfume. Luscious. Delicious. Tempting! Everyone loves fig, right? Duh.<br />
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Oh! What about boozy perfumes?! Oh, I love a perfume that smells like an after-dinner drink. How 'bout you? I mean... right?!<br />
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What about gourmands, since we're talking about figs and booze? Chocolate - there's nothing better, amiright? Oy vey, a good chocolate perfume sends me!<br />
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And then there are roses. I've just started to love rose perfumes. They're so varied, though, so traditionally Perfume. So feminine. So masculine. So unisex. They're whatever you want them to be, but you can always depend on them being sensual, beautiful, and symbolic of the big L*.<br />
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<i>*Love, my dear.</i></div>
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Well, mama, I am here to point you in the direction of another fabulous sandalwood perfume! And another fabulous fig perfume. And another boozy perfume. And a chocolate one. And... wait: they're all in the same perfume. Dear Mother of All That is Good!<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-m1AXufRz7ds/UZfl82yhoFI/AAAAAAAALaI/Eara2ln_ZSw/s1600/il_570xN.404913381_mfhz.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-m1AXufRz7ds/UZfl82yhoFI/AAAAAAAALaI/Eara2ln_ZSw/s320/il_570xN.404913381_mfhz.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i>Mother</i>. A perfume by <b>Opus Oils</b>. It contains all of the notes referenced about, all presented masterfully in<a href="https://www.facebook.com/PrimordialScents2012MotherByOpusOils?fref=ts"> a limited edition scent by Master Perfumer Kedra Hart for the Primordial Scents Project</a>. It references "earth", an idea I think it accomplishes with aplomb! (Click the link to visit a lot of the background and references for the scent)<br />
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I am mad for this scent, as is everyone who has smelled it. It starts out boozy, like a promising evening. Figs flesh out the scent, lending a very sensual nuance. This phase is beautiful and fleshy and something I wish would never end. But all things must come to an end...<br />
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... luckily for us all, Mother only gets better, which is almost impossible to believe! While the rose isn't so prominent on my skin, the stunning this-is-the-good-stuff sandalwood surges forward, bringing with it the rich nuttiness of chocolate.<br />
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This is not by any means a gourmand scent, in my opinion. It's something different. It's something <i>more</i>. It becomes a warm, bready, skinscent with a chocolate tinge and occasional flash of booze. The sandalwood almost wafts a smoky facet that it truly intriguing.<br />
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If this scent brings anything to mind it's not actually "earth", it's more of the Adam and Eve myth. The beginning of humans on this earth, if the stories are to be taken literally. The tempting fruit (in this case it's fig). The warm skin of two young people. The romance of roses and chocolate -maybe the latter wasn't in the fabled Garden of Eden but it would have been had it been "invented" back then. And booze, another concept from another time that seems so appropriate for the Origins Tale. Surely it is believable that Eve and Adam sinned after a few drinks, no?<br />
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If I had to classify this scent, I suppose I'd call it "woody". But why put pressure on things by labeling them? This scent is so expansive and gorgeous, putting tags on it is just selling it short.<br />
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Slightly carnal, very sexy, and deliciously beautiful. Very typical of the <b>Opus Oils</b> "formula" which, to the best of my knowledge, has never failed to result in a stunning scent.<br />
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If you haven't tried it, <i>you simply must</i>. It<i> is</i> limited edition, after all!<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.etsy.com/listing/119597825/mother-earth-aromatic-special-ltd-ed-1?ref=shop_home_active" style="font-size: xx-large;">Opus Oils on Etsy</a><span style="font-size: x-large;">. </span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.opusoils.com/">Opus Oils website</a>.</div>
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<a href="https://www.facebook.com/opus.oils?fref=ts">Opus Oils on Facebook</a>.</div>
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<form action="https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr" method="post" style="background-color: white;" target="paypal">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: black;"><strong>Mother:</strong> Sample (.5-1ml) $5.00; </span><span style="font-family: 'times new roman', times, serif;">1 Dram Parfum $40.00;</span><span style="font-family: 'times new roman', times, serif;">1/2oz Parfum $75.00</span><strong style="font-family: 'times new roman', times, serif;">Mother</strong><span style="font-family: 'times new roman', times, serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: 'times new roman', times, serif;">1oz Eau de Parfum $65.00</span><strong style="font-family: 'times new roman', times, serif;">Mother</strong><span style="font-family: 'times new roman', times, serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: 'times new roman', times, serif;">1oz Ltd. Edition EDP (Adorned with Decorative Art Nouveau Medallion)</span><span style="font-family: 'times new roman', times, serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: times new roman,times,serif;">$90</span><span style="font-family: 'times new roman', times, serif;">.00</span><strong style="font-family: 'times new roman', times, serif;">Mother</strong><span style="font-family: 'times new roman', times, serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: 'times new roman', times, serif;">2oz Eau de Parfum $115.00</span><strong style="font-family: 'times new roman', times, serif;">Mother</strong><span style="font-family: 'times new roman', times, serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: 'times new roman', times, serif;">1.7oz Fancy Atomizer (Alcohol ONLY) $140.00</span><strong style="font-family: 'times new roman', times, serif;">Mother</strong><span style="font-family: 'times new roman', times, serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: 'times new roman', times, serif;">3.3oz Bath & Body Oil $50.00</span><strong style="font-family: 'times new roman', times, serif;">Mother</strong><span style="font-family: 'times new roman', times, serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: 'times new roman', times, serif;">6.7oz Body Lotion $46.00</span><strong style="font-family: 'times new roman', times, serif;">Mother</strong><span style="font-family: 'times new roman', times, serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: times new roman,times,serif;">8.5oz Bath Salts $44.00</span><strong style="font-family: 'times new roman', times, serif;">Mother</strong><span style="font-family: 'times new roman', times, serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: times new roman,times,serif;">8.5oz Body Butter $55.00</span><strong style="font-family: 'times new roman', times, serif;">Mother</strong><span style="font-family: 'times new roman', times, serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: times new roman,times,serif;">Gift Set (.5oz Parfum, 1oz EDP, B&B Oil, Body Lotion, Body Butter, Bath Salts) $250.00</span></span></form>
jensunhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00041130248100842593noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2543727401374792804.post-46780085950840402502013-04-05T11:29:00.000-07:002013-04-05T11:44:30.091-07:00Jul et Mad: A love story. Stilettos on Lex, Amour de Palazzo, Terrasse à St Germain (perfume review)<div class="separator tr_bq" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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A few months ago, I had the distinct pleasure of attending the global launch for a new perfume line, <b>Jul et Mad</b> at the most perfect perfume destination in NY (if not the planet), <a href="http://minnewyork.com/"><b>MiN New York</b></a>. I was so overcome by meeting a lot of friends in-person for the first time, by the beauty and quirkiness of the shop, and frankly also by owner Mindy Yang's 3 brilliant cocktails made with <b>Mandy Aftel</b>'s <i><b>Chef Essences</b></i> and in the spirit of the 3 scents being launched --- so overcome that I forgot to ask for samples to take home and ruminate over.<br />
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Flash forward a few months and I finally got over my embarrassment and managed to procure some samples. If only getting myself bottles of these scents was as easy! <br />
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<span style="color: #990000; font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><b>A little about the Jul et Mad line, for those who are not familiar with it...</b></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jul et Mad</td></tr>
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If you like backstories for your perfumes, this line has it. The <b>Jul et Mad</b> line's <b><i>Histoire d’Amour</i></b> was presented to us at <b>MiN</b> by one of the owners, Madalina, who told of her love story with Julien (get it: Jul et Mad?). The perfumes trace this story and express it in scent, from Romanian-born Madalina's single days in New York working in the cosmetics industry, to when she first meets Parisian-born world traveler scientist-type Julien in Paris, through to the couple's first trip away together in Venice.<br />
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The perfumes were developed by perfumer Dorothée Piot of Maison Robertet (<b>Amoauge</b> <i>Memoir Woman</i>, <b>Olfactive Studio </b><i>Chambre Noire</i>, and others) following the company's tagline "<i>Perfume Without Compromise</i>". Each of the three scents comes in a beautiful, fabric-lined box, accompanied by a travel-size atomizer because Madalina believes women should be able to touch-up their scent experience throughout the day. She spent quite a bit of time considering every facet of the production, from scent (of course) to packaging and bottle design. I like the way she thinks, though I do wish the scents were available in smaller bottles as a stand-alone (cheaper than the current $280 for 50ml - parfum concentration, btw), as while I adore the perfumes I <i>must</i> compromise or my kids don't eat! :)<br />
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<b><span style="color: #990000; font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: x-large;">Stilettos on Lex</span></b><br />
One of my favorite things about perfume is the phenomenon of sillage. A scent trail. The lingering impression left in one's wake. An olfactory timestamp. A memory.<br />
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This is the basis for the first scent in the <b>Jul et Mad </b>story. It tells the tale of a single, cosmopolitan woman (our Madalina) as she walks down the street leaving a sensual and confident sillage trailing behind her. We hear her heels click as she leaves nothing but that sound and that smell to burn into our minds. Dramatic, but you get the point.<br />
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What does this <i>Stilettos on Lex</i> sillage story say?<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HV_PBG0nhUc/UV8ataKevUI/AAAAAAAAK6c/2sbS3sLPiHM/s1600/jul-et-mad-stilettos-on-lex-bottle.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="308" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HV_PBG0nhUc/UV8ataKevUI/AAAAAAAAK6c/2sbS3sLPiHM/s640/jul-et-mad-stilettos-on-lex-bottle.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i><span style="color: #990000; font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><b>I now invoke my luck, hoping that one day I will cross again her magnificent allure on this same legendary avenue…Her image disappeared, but during her short passage she offered me the most attaching of memories: her perfume…</b></span></i></blockquote>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><b><br />The Accord: Chypre Fruity Floral<br /><br />A timeless ode to eternal beauty opening on a sparkling fruity-gourmand note, a prelude to the opulent floral bouquet, dominated by the softness of heliotrope, and crowned by the powdery and sensual touch of iris and carnation… A mysterious and exalting mélange of musk and precious woods reinforce and sublimate this composition of ultimate elegance.<br />Head : Lemon, Pear, Davana, Plum Liquor<br />Heart: Lily of the Valley, Violette Leaves, Rose Absolute, Heliotrope, Iris, Carnation<br />Bottom: Musk, Madagascar Vanilla, Indonesian Patchouli, Atlas Cedarwood</b></span></blockquote>
A lovely story - but the perfume: does it stack up? Well, almost everyone I've encountered thinks so! It was, that night we met it, the most popular of the three, though I think the others have become just as beloved - perhaps <i>Stilettos</i> is most accessible? I don't know. I myself favored <i>Amour de Palazzo</i> that night, but I'll talk about that in a moment.<br />
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<i>Stilettos on Lex</i> is a modern take on both the chypre style of perfumery and on the traditional "lipstick" or "cosmetics powder" accords. The fruity opening, dominated by a luscious plum, is a flirtatious wink and smile, delightful but not sticky or shrill. <i>Stiletto</i>'s heart features rose, violet, powdery heliotrope, and other lovely florals that bloom softly and with beautiful presence before folding graciously into the musky, softly-powdered base (in which the cedar and patchouli are barely noticeable but give a certain strength to a bottom that would otherwise fly away).<br />
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I love it. It's cheerful without being chipper, it's pretty without being girlish, it's floral without smacking you in the face. It's delightfully modern with a polite nod to traditional perfumery. Glorious.<br />
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<span style="background-color: white; line-height: 22px;"><span style="color: #990000; font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: x-large;"><b>Terrasse à St Germain</b></span></span><br />
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Love at first sight. A lovely concept! Depending on who you speak to, it's either a ridiculous notion or the turning point in one's life.<br />
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<i>Terrasse à St Germain</i> celebrates the struck-by-lightening feeling of love at first sight, or "coup de foudre". Our couple meets in Paris - though they almost did not!<br />
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<i><span style="color: #990000; font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><b> His passage leaves a void behind him, and this emptiness, daydreaming, she already fills it with wild and fascinating perfumes inspired by the picture of the young man… the beautiful stranger turned around and approaches...</b></span></i></blockquote>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><b>The Accord: Woody Floral Musky<br /><br />Starting with the first note, a green and sparkling freshness awakes the senses, rapidly sustained by a subtle floral palette of freesia, lotus and rose, giving to the formula a surprising and delicate sensuality. The strength of the musk strikes suddenly, but in complete harmony and perfect symbiosis with the precious sandalwood and the seducing patchouli…<br />Head : Grapefruit, Tangerine, Rhubarb<br />Heart: Freesia, Lotus Flower, Blue Rose</b></span><b style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: small;">Bottom: Musk, Sandalwood, Indonesian Patchouli</b></blockquote>
At the start, there's a watery sweetness to <i>Terrasse à St Germain </i>that is unusual,<i> </i>at least to my novice nose. This perfume moves fast, flashing through the tangerine, a glimpse of grapefruit, and on to the rhubarb. It then grabs the freesia (sweet tarts! this is the truest freesia note I have encountered in perfumery so far!), and takes a little tang from the rhubarb. Rhubarb seems to be one of those notes that gets perfumistas <i>very </i>interested, <i>very </i>quickly. Luckily for those perfumistas, the note is handled beautifully here, and with a sense of humor - it's flirty and fun and unexpected!<br />
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Still moving quickly, on my skin if not yours, <i>Terrasse </i>slips right into the rose. It's slightly candied (the lotus and freesia still playing a hand) and very cheerful. This is, I suspect, the scent that is to blame for my recent obsession with rose! The delectable rose in this blend is one that stuck in my mind and didn't let go.<br />
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That said, this is not a "feminine" scent. A confident man would lead lines of women around wearing <i>Terrasse à St Germain. </i>This will be especially true when the beautifully musky wood base<br />
comes into play. While I wish this scent lasted forever, it does not (alas! only 5 hours or so.), which is all the more reason to spritz it again.<br />
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<i>Terrasse à St Germain</i> is a beauty, from the first tangy, ebullient spray to the final, lingering woody traces.<br />
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<span style="color: #990000; font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: x-large;"><span style="background-color: white; font-weight: bold; line-height: 22px;">Amour de Palazzo</span> </span><br />
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The first trip as a couple is always remembered and cherished as a memory. Our setting for this third scent and story, Venice, is the sight of one such trip, as our couple walk through ancient buildings and experience the history of this special city.<br />
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<span style="color: #990000; font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><b>The rich and heavy perfume of precious wood and leather furniture, shone and polished by passing centuries, mix agreeably now with the pleasant and cocooning fragrances coming from the surrounding gardens, the humidity of the old stone and the lagoon that follows and surrounds us… We walk aimlessly… Dream or reality? It doesn't really matter… Here we are in perfect harmony, we feel free, free to love each other, free to taste as one the same happiness… free to appreciate the instant… Every single gesture, no matter how simple, is now charged with profound significance.</b></span></blockquote>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><b>The Accord: Oriental Woody Leather<br /><br />The noble palette of ingredients used for this creation give the precious character to this fragrance: a spicy start, fresh and slightly "gourmand" at the same time, opens the way to the heart of the perfume where floral, woody, and leather notes create a perfect harmony… A divine, marvelous amber-oud accord reveals itself promptly, sustained by the seductive power of animal notes… Narcotic and irresistible…<br />Head : Four Spice (pepper, cloves, ginger, nutmeg)<br />Heart: Absolute of Violette, Atlas Cedarwood, Leather, Indonesian Patchouli, Labdanum<br />Bottom: Musk, Oud, Amber, Papyrus, Animal Castoreum</b></span></blockquote>
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This one is the more masculine of the three, though I consider all three unisex. <i>Amour de Palazzo</i> was my instant favorite of the three. Considering my tastes in perfume, it's easy to see why! <span style="background-color: white; color: #7f8c54; font-family: Arial, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; font-weight: bold; line-height: 22px;"> </span><i>Amour de Palazzo</i> is a woody, leathery thing that immediately evokes a sense of history, depth, and sex appeal. It opens with a peppery bang laid over leather. The spices do not turn foody, thankfully, rather they stand strong and lay wide the perfect path for the woody, slightly rough notes that are to come.<br />
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The heart of <i>Amour de Palazzo</i> still carries some of that peppery facet, wrapped in the slightest hint of violet, wrapped in patchouli leaves, wrapped in leather (the turducken of perfumery!). It's just the right amount of deep and slightly dirty. Sexy. By blending violet (<i>Stilettos</i>) and wood (<i>Terrasse</i>), we've moved from flirtation right into the good stuff!<br />
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The beautiful base of <i>Amour </i>goes on and on, echoes of spices and leather still present in swaths of animalic oud and musk. It's raw, but round; intense, but not painful and sharp. Where the opening notes are intense and somewhat strong, the base softens and melts into the skin leaving a distinct impression - but only for those fairly close up. For them, it leaves the heart racing.<br />
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<span style="color: #990000; font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: x-large;"><b>Jul et Mad</b></span><br />
It's now 6 months after the global launch of <b>Jul et Mad</b>, and already one of the scents, <i>Terrase à St-Germain</i>, has brought acclaim in the form of a nomination for FiFi Indie Perfume of the Year Award (it was runner-up!). MiN is not the only point of sales in the US, now: you can also purchase <b>Jul et Mad</b> at <b><a href="http://www.aedes.com/Jul-et-Mad_c_323.html">Aedes de Venustas</a></b> (NY). <a href="http://minnewyork.com/manufacturer/jul-et-mad"><b>MiN</b> does now offer samples</a> on their website, by the way, for those of you curious about the brand. I also encourage you to take a wander through the beautifully done <a href="http://www.juletmad.com/"><b>Jul et Mad</b> website</a> (you can order online there, too).<br />
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Bottom Line: I would be a proud owner of any of these three scents, hard-pressed to select a favorite. I love them all.<br />
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Samples graciously provided by MiN New York</div>
<br />jensunhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00041130248100842593noreply@blogger.com4